Jean-Georges at The Shinmonzen (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★★☆☆

Six days into our trip and we still hadn’t sat down to a Michelin-caliber meal but that was about to change. I had something up my sleeve this afternoon: a surprise lunch stop during our Kyoto tour that promised to be both refined and memorable.

Jean-Georges at The Shinmonzen, a high-end dining destination in Kyoto, is part of The Shinmonzen, a luxury boutique hotel in the historic Gion district. The restaurant is the brainchild of world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, known for his innovative approach to contemporary French cuisine.

The restaurant sits right besides the picturesque Shirakawa River (祇園白川), offering a serene and almost cinematic backdrop. Its kitchen is currently helmed by Chef Hana Yoon, a talented Korean chef entrusted with the day-to-day operations and execution of Jean-Georges’ vision.

Chef Jean-Georges is globally celebrated for his ability to blend modern cooking techniques with French, American and Asian flavors. At The Shinmonzen, the menu reflects this signature style, with a focus on seasonal Kyoto ingredients, precise technique, and artful presentation.

The restaurant design, much like the hotel, is a tasteful fusion of modern architecture and traditional Kyoto aesthetics, with a minimalist dining room that opens onto a small terrace overlooking the river.

There’s also a small counter area for guests who enjoy watching the chefs in action. A peek behind the culinary curtain.

We began with a warm buttermilk scone, paired with handmade butter from Normandy. A simple yet elegant start that set the tone for the meal.

Bread was immediately followed by two small nibbles. The first was sweet corn soup served in a tiny bowl, delicately infused with perilla flowers. The floral note gave the soup a subtle earthiness, balancing the natural sweetness of the corn.

The second, a crispy sushi, with a thin slice of salmon over battered rice. Texturally playful.

Tuna tartare, ginger marinade, spicy radish – One of Chef Jean Georges’ most iconic dishes that I had the pleasure of having on a number of occasions but with slightly different variations each time (for example, as tuna ribbons).

The red tuna tartare was stacked on a tower of avocado purée and topped with finely shredded radish, finished off by a ginger soy marinade that was thick, intense, and fiery.

This was a dish I’ve enjoyed a few times in the past. Once bold and exciting, it now felt like it has run its course. Perhaps it's time this classic gets an innovative refresh.

Kato Farm pork chop, prosciutto – A thick cut of pork marinated with dill and Parmesan, and wrapped in a slice of fatty prosciutto. The pork was flavorful, but its slightly chewy texture took away from the overall experience. I did enjoy the sweet and sour nectarine, a clever touch to cut through the richness of the pork.

Passion fruit flower – Beautifully plated meringue flower with another intense and vibrant sauce, this time made primarily with passion fruit. 

Hidden inside was a rich hazelnut praline and caramel centre, providing a deep, nutty contrast to the bright acidity of the passion fruit. For me, this was the best dish of the afternoon.

Some jelly candies and chocolate to wrap up the meal.

A meal at a Jean-Georges establishment comes with pedigree and naturally, high expectations. While the setting was undeniably charming and elegant, very few dishes if any stood out this afternoon, leaving us wanting more.

Some of the dishes, such as the tuna tartare (which I had the pleasure of having at JG Tokyo and his flagship restaurant in NYC before), felt tired and uninspired, echoing a style that may have impressed a decade ago but now feels in need of reinvention. Service was professional but not exceptionally warm or memorable. So, while I wouldn’t say I was disappointed, neither was I wowed.

Food Rating: 6.7/10

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 235 Nishinocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, 605-0088, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Gion-Shijo / Kyoto-Kawaramachi

Tel: +81 (0)75 600-2055

Website: https://theshinmonzen.com/dining/

Opening Hours: 7:00am - 9:30am, 12:00pm - 1:30pm, 5:30pm - 8:30pm daily