The Mandarin Cake Shop (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

I am taking the afternoon off today, and rather than heading home early, I decided to take a leisurely walk around Sheung Wan and Central. There was one stop I have been looking forward to all month — the newly renovated The Mandarin Cake Shop.

For the past year or so, The Mandarin Oriental group has been heavily promoting its massive US$100 million, four-phase transformation. It’s hard to miss the campaign, with advertisements everywhere including on the face of the trams.

The group’s properties are nearing the completion of their top-to-bottom redesign, and the Mandarin Cake Shop has officially reopened after a spectacular facelift. I have seen glimpses of the new space on social media earlier in the week, so I was eager to try some of its new creations. Finally, the time had come.

The shop felt much more modern chic than before. 

And there was a slightly larger seating area for those looking to enjoy afternoon tea.

I headed straight to the display counter to check out the new offerings, including mango sticky rice, Café Macchiato, and Paris-Brest Hazelnut Cake.

Even the takeaway box has a new design.

1963 Mandarin Cheesecake ($72) — A long-standing fan favorite dating back to 1963, the Mandarin Cake Shop’s signature cheesecake has received a subtle makeover.

It still has the same buttery-soft texture it’s been known for since day one.



Osmanthus Pear and Caramel ($92) — A lovely marriage between seasonal pear compote, delicately floral osmanthus mousse, soft almond sponge, and a center of miso caramel ganache.

I liked how the miso caramel ganache added subtle savory depth, balancing the floral, fruity, and caramelized notes of the dessert but I wished the osmanthus and pear flavors could have come through more distinctly. After all, they should be the stars of the dessert.

I've had a ton of desserts in Seoul last week so I was thinking about taking a break from my consumption of sweet treats but these were really too beautiful to pass up. I guess the break could wait a little.

Food Rating: 6.8/10
Price: $$$$
Address: M/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Central
Tel: +852 2825-4008
Website: https://hongkong.mandarinorientalshop.com/collections/cakes-and-confectionery
Opening Hours: 8:00am - 8:00pm (Mon - Sat), 8:00am - 7:00pm (Sun)

Marly Cafe 마를리 (Seoul, SOUTH KOREA) ★★★★☆

I arrived in trendy Seongsu-dong (聖水洞) a little early this morning, hoping to soak up the vibe before the crowds arrived. For the most part, I succeeded. I even managed to stop by I’m Donut?, my favorite doughnut chain in the world, for breakfast. All in all, it was a bright start to the day.

With about an hour left before my lunch appointment, I decided to swing by Marly Cafe (마를리), a highly popular spot right in the heart of Seongsu-dong. 

The café is best known for its freshly made desserts and aesthetic interior. 

It spans two spacious floors, and the casual atmosphere — wooden furniture mixed with industrial décor makes you feel right at home.

A visit to Marly Cafe isn’t complete without one of their multi-layered fruit crepes or mille-crepe cakes. Their bestseller is the seasonal strawberry crepe and mixed-fruit layered cakes featuring fresh kiwi, banana, and melon, all folded with light cream.

Fig crepe cake (₩9,000) — I’m a sucker for anything with fresh figs, and since it’s fig season in Korea right now, it was a no-brainer. 

The figs were really fresh and juicy, and that honey-like aroma worked perfectly with the paper-thin crepes. My only complaint: there was a bit too much pastry cream so the health-conscious side of me wasn’t entirely happy.



Earl Grey milk tea (₩8,000) — It’s easily one of the best milk teas in Seongsu-dong. Creamy, well-balanced, and just the right strength.

Forty-five minutes flew by just like that, and it was time to walk over to my lunch spot. But wait, I have made a mistake with my calculation and it looked like the walk would take more than 15 minutes.

Food Rating: 6.6/10

Price: ₩₩₩

Address: 315-55 Seongsu-dong 2(i)-ga, Seongdong-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Closest Metro Station: Seongsu

Tel: +82 02-467-0303

Website: https://instagram.com/marly.official_

Opening Hours: 9:00am - 11:00pm daily

Le Chemin 르슈망 (Seoul, SOUTH KOREA) ★★★☆☆

After more than an hour of wandering the narrow, winding alleys of Haebangchon including a stop at the revitalized Sinheung Market, it was time for a quick drink. The choice came down to two of the neighborhood’s most popular cafés and patisseries — Le Montblanc (르몽블랑) and Le Chemin (르슈망).

Le Chemin, a highly sought-after French pastry café tucked into the hillside, is widely celebrated on social media for its beautifully crafted seasonal “Namsan Mont Blanc” cakes that perfectly recreate the iconic N Seoul Tower. Beyond the viral cakes, it also earns high praise for its authentic French canelés, which feature a deeply caramelized, crunchy crust and a remarkably smooth, custardy centre.

Unfortunately, on this afternoon visit the selection was very limited. Other than a hazelnut cake, the only things left were different flavors of canelé.

Iced milk tea (₩6,500) — Like most milk teas in Seoul, it leaned heavily on milk and sweetness. This one had almost no caffeine in it, although I probably didn’t need any to stay awake today.

Chestnut canelé (₩4,500) — At a French patisserie I would normally try something more sophisticated, but after tasting nearly half a dozen pastries since arriving in Seoul, I wanted something simple this afternoon. 

Their highly touted canelé fit the bill perfectly. Underneath the crunchy crust was a sweetened chestnut compote. Not bad.

My chill-out time was drawing to a close. I didn't notice the sun had already disappeared, so it was time to head to tonight's dinner venue, a place I have been looking forward to since making the reservation last month.

Food Rating: 6/10

Price: ₩₩₩

Address: 1–2F, 101-1 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: +82 010-2764-0674

Website: https://www.instagram.com/le.chemin_seoul/?hl=en

Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 9:00pm (Mon - Tue, Thu - Fri), 12:00pm - 10:00pm (Sat - Sun)

7 of The Best Cafés, Restaurants and Dessert Spots in Haebangchon Village

Haebangchon Village (解放村), nestled on the steep southern slopes of Namsan in Yongsan-gu (龍山區), offers tourists a rare blend of living history and contemporary Seoul charm that feels both authentic and refreshingly unpolished. Once a post-liberation shantytown settled by returning Koreans and North Korean refugees after 1945, the neighborhood still retains the character of one of Seoul’s last “moon villages”, or daldongnae (달동네), which are spontaneous hillside settlements that formed on steep mountain slopes and high-elevation areas during the rapid post-war and industrialization eras between the 1950s and 1980s.

Visitors can climb the historic 108 stairs originally built in 1943, or now take the inclined elevator uphill. 

Exploring the revitalized Sinheung Market, where decades-old stalls now sit alongside indie shops and street art, is a must. 

The narrow, winding alleys and hillside vantage points deliver sweeping views of Namsan Tower and the city below, giving travelers a tangible sense of the layers of modern Korean history. 

Beyond its historical depth, Haebangchon draws visitors with its famously relaxed, multi-cultural atmosphere and thriving café-and-dining scene. The neighborhood has evolved into a creative hub where Korean residents, long-term expats, and artists coexist, resulting in an eclectic mix of rooftop cafés with panoramic city views, specialty coffee shops, international eateries, and intimate bars tucked into converted old buildings. Here are 7 of the best cafés, restaurants and sweet spots you shouldn't miss on your visit to Haebangchon Village.

1) Le Montblanc café (르몽블랑)

Le Montblanc is a popular dessert café housed in a former knitting factory in Haebangchon’s Sinheung Market, famous for its hyper-realistic yarn-ball and sweater-shaped mousse cakes. Tourists love visiting for the whimsical Instagram-worthy desserts, the industrial-yet-cozy multi-floor space with rooftop views, and a unique experience that blends local history with creative pastry art.

Address: 99-4 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: +82 070-8887-8200

Website: https://www.instagram.com/le_montblanc/

2) SAY TOUCHÉ

SAY TOUCHÉ is a design-focused lifestyle brand flagship that combines a café with a curated shop and gallery-like spaces, co-created by AKMU’s Lee Chan-hyuk and photographer Lim Jae-rin. Its stylish, plant-covered exterior, multi-floor experience of coffee plus unique home objects and art, makes it a perfect stop for design lovers seeking an aesthetic, Instagrammable break in Haebangchon.

Address: 1F, 53 Noksapyeong-daero 32-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: Not publicly listed (mainly contact via Instagram)

Website: https://saytouche.kr/

3) Taco Stand (타코스탠드)

Tacostand is a casual Mexican taqueria in Haebangchon known for authentic street-style tacos (birria, carnitas, chorizo, and more) made with homemade tortillas and bold salsas, plus a lively terrace. Tourists seek it out for genuine Mexican flavors in a fun, colorful setting with outdoor seating—ideal for a relaxed meal with drinks while exploring the neighborhood’s hillside streets, provided that a two-hour wait is not a concern.

Address: 34 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: +82 010-9776-8989

Website: https://www.instagram.com/tacostandkr/

4) Gelateria Torre (젤라떼리아 토레)

Gelateria Torre is an artisanal gelato shop just outside the Sinheung Market that specializes in high-quality Italian-style gelato with creative seasonal flavors, such as Jeju Hallabong ricotta cream. Patrons love the fresh, refined scoops that stand out from typical ice cream, offering a refreshing and authentic sweet treat while strolling through Haebangchon’s lively market alleys.

Address: 97-1 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: Not publicly listed

Website: https://www.instagram.com/gelateria_torre/

5) Villa de Bleu

Villa de Bleu is a Mediterranean-inspired brunch and wine bar celebrated for its signature “cheese waterfall” aligot lasagna and Italian-French comfort dishes in a cozy, Amalfi-like setting. The main draw to the bar include the theatrical tableside cheese pour, solid wine list, and intimate atmosphere that works equally well for a leisurely brunch or a romantic dinner in Haebangchon.

Address: 1F, 30-1 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: +82 0507-1409-8242

Website: https://www.instagram.com/villadebleu_/

6) Le Chemin Patisserie

Le Chemin is a French-style pâtisserie in Haebangchon specializing in refined desserts, notably creative canelés and seasonal cakes (such as the Namsan Mont Blanc) crafted by skilled pastry chefs. The elegant, high-quality French pastries and cozy multi-level space, provides a sophisticated sweet stop that feels special during a day of neighborhood exploration.

Address: 1–2F, 101-1 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: +82 010-2764-0674

Website: https://www.instagram.com/le.chemin_seoul/?hl=en

7) Softbar

Softbar is a trendy soft-serve ice cream shop (with a branch in Seongsu-dong) known for unique, high-quality flavors like honey grapefruit yogurt, pistachio, and Dubai chocolate. It's a must-do for those who enjoy a quick, photogenic, and refreshing treat while walking the hills of Haebangchon, especially on warm days when a creative soft-serve cone perfectly complements the area’s casual café-hopping vibe.

Address: 1F, 93 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Tel: +82 0507-1487-0976

Website: https://www.instagram.com/softbar_official

Here's the map:      

    

Raison d'être 레종데트르 Hannamdong (Seoul, SOUTH KOREA) ★★★★☆

After enjoying a very pleasant lunch at Y'east today, I took a leisurely walk around Dosan Park before firing up my Uber app to get my ride to Hangangjin station. Seoul’s subway system is pretty extensive, yet navigating from one corner of the city to another can still feel needlessly complicated. The journey from Apgujeong (狎鷗亭) to Hannam-dong (漢南洞) is a perfect example — taking the subway would have been a nightmare, while a Uber ride took no more than fifteen minutes.

Hannamdong is one of my favorite parts of the city. While it’s relatively small compared to Seongsu-dong (聖水洞), there’s no shortage of trendy cafés and boutiques. 

My first stop was supposed to be Jaein Patisserie but that didn’t really pan out. While there was no noticeably long queue in front, I was told that the waiting time for a table would take a whopping two hours! That's two hours I didn't have, so that put me onto Plan B...



Café Raison D'être (레종데트르) is a popular French-inspired boutique dessert and mousse cake café in Seoul with locations in Seochon, Hannam-dong, and Gwanghwamun. 

This branch in the affluent neighborhood of Hannam-dong is tucked away on the second floor of a commercial building. 

The café is known for treating its pastries like works of edible art, often showcasing the freshest Korean seasonal fruits.

Several of their signature creations were available, including “The Duck” (황색 소아/오리) — a striking yellow-duck-shaped mousse cake made with Jeju yuzu, apple, and peach compote that has gone viral but I ended up getting something else instead.

Iced Earl Grey milk tea (₩6,500) — Rich, creamy, and decadently sweet like the royal milk tea you find at street-side cafés. I didn’t mind the extra glucose to keep my energy up.

Fig cake (₩9,500) — A seasonal creation that makes excellent use of fresh figs currently in season.

The unsweetened figs were bursting with natural sweetness and freshness, and pairing them with a centre of fig compote was pure joy for any fig lover.

The delicate buckwheat mousse, with its mildly earthy and nutty notes, made the fruit’s sweetness stand out even more. I loved it.

I’m afraid that’s all the time I have for Hannam-dong on this trip. On each trip I take it upon myself to visit one new attraction, and this afternoon I’m heading to Haebangchon Village (解放村) in Yongsan-gu (龍山區), a historic hillside neighborhood known for its super-chill vibe and café scene.

Food Rating: 6.6/10

Price: ₩₩₩

Address: 683-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Closest Metro Station: Hangangjin

Tel: +82 0507-1385-1543

Website: https://www.instagram.com/raisondetre_dessert/?hl=en

Opening Hours: 11:00am - 7:30pm daily

Cafe Nudake Haus Dosan (Seoul, SOUTH KOREA) ★★★☆☆

After starting my journey in Dosan Park with a vanilla Basque cheesecake at CHIZN (치즈앤), I wasn’t ready to leave the neighborhood’s sweets scene yet. Next up, I'm exploring the sweet treats at Cafe Nudake Haus Dosan.

Tucked in the basement of Gentle Monster’s flagship eyewear store, Cafe Nudake Haus Dosan delivers one of the most distinctive and conceptual café experiences in all of Gangnam. Here, desserts are treated less like baked goods and more like avant-garde art pieces blending high-end fashion, surrealist visuals, and experimental gastronomy.

     

A visit feels more like a tour of a modern art gallery than a typical café stop. This was my second time at their Dosan branch, so I already knew exactly what was coming — striking color combinations, unexpected textures, and sculptural forms, with samples of their creations lined up along the wooden benches.

Having already tried the signature items like the Tart Moon, I decided to go with something lighter and more refreshing this time, especially after the rich Basque cheesecake I enjoyed not long ago.

Tomato 🍅 (₩12,000) — A clear jelly filled with a vibrant red strawberry-and-tomato compote hidden inside a chocolate core.

The jelly itself carries a tropical edge highlighted by notes of coriander, lime, and soy. There was also an earthy, vegetal undertone rounding things out, that resembles the flavor of a real tomato. 

While I liked the innovative side of this dessert, it felt more like a palate cleanser from a multi-course meal. Refreshing, yes but satisfying? Well, it depends…

Food Rating: 5.9/10

Price: ₩₩₩₩

Address: 649-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Closest Metro Station: Apgujeong / Apgujeong Rodeo

Tel: +82 070-4128-2125

Opening Hours: 11:00am - 9:00pm daily