Koé Donuts (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★★★☆

While my team decided to head back to Osaka early, I decided to hang around Nishiki Market (錦市場) a little longer. There’s always so much to see here — the charming boutiques, cozy cafés, and of course, one of my favorite donut shops in Kyoto — Koé Donuts.

Located within the same building as Tokyu Stay Kyoto Sakaiza, Koé Donuts offers a nice selection of freshly baked donuts and seasonal specialties, including their unique "donuts melt".

This popular shop also boasts one of the best-looking cafés in the area, providing the perfect vibe to enjoy a sweet treat.

I decided to get myself some yeast donuts to bring back to Osaka.

Mont Blanc (420 yen) – A simple yeast doughnut with chestnut vermicelli on top. A little plain but satisfying.



I love the slogan at Koé Donuts: "Life happens, donut helps!" It’s a reminder that while life can throw challenges our way, there’s always a donut to brighten up our day.

Food Rating: 6.8/10

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 557 Nakanocho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, 604-8042, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Kyoto-Kawaramachi

Tel: +81 (0)75 748-1162

Website: https://donuts.koe.com/

Opening Hours: 9:00am - 8:00pm daily

Sabo Maeda Nijo-jo Castle 茶房前田 二条城 (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★★☆☆

This afternoon, apart from our visit to Nijo-jo Castle (二条城), we didn’t have much on our agenda. Built by the powerful Tokugawa family in the 1600s, the castle symbolizes the shogunate's authority over the imperial court.

Despite the scorching heat in Kyoto, we decided it was finally time to put our plan into motion and explore this World Heritage Site and former imperial villa.

Entering through the Higashi Ote-mon ("Grand East Gate", 東大手門), we were greeted by the magnificent Karamon (唐門), the main gate to Ninomaru-goten Palace (二の丸御殿), a stunning example of Edo-period architectural and artistic excellence.

As we strolled around the serene pond garden, we admired the beautifully sculpted rocks and pine trees that framed the landscape.

Unfortunately, the castle itself was closed for the day, so we could only wander around the inner moat and stone walls.

The heat was becoming unbearable, so we decided to take a break at Sabo Maeda (茶房 前田), located in the historic teahouse "Warakuan" (和楽庵). 

At this point, everyone could certainly use a refreshing drink.

The ancient teahouse is situated right in front of "Seiryuen" (清流園), a Japanese-Western style garden within the castle grounds. 

I had seen pictures of Sabo Maeda with its windows wide open, offering a lovely view of the adjacent garden, but unfortunately, all the windows were slammed shut today.

Regardless, I was just happy to have a glass of iced matcha latte in hand. 

Jelloman and I had been dreaming about this visit to Nijo-jo Castle for at least a decade, so it felt great to finally check it off our list. Now, it was time to retreat indoors, as some of us were at risk of dehydration!

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, 604-8301, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Nijojo-mae

Tel: +81 (0)75 823-0223

Website: http://www.maedacoffee.com/?page_id=998

Opening Hours: 9:30am - 4:00pm daily

Jean-Georges at The Shinmonzen (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★★☆☆

Six days into our trip and we still hadn’t sat down to a Michelin-caliber meal but that was about to change. I had something up my sleeve this afternoon: a surprise lunch stop during our Kyoto tour that promised to be both refined and memorable.

Jean-Georges at The Shinmonzen, a high-end dining destination in Kyoto, is part of The Shinmonzen, a luxury boutique hotel in the historic Gion district. The restaurant is the brainchild of world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, known for his innovative approach to contemporary French cuisine.

The restaurant sits right besides the picturesque Shirakawa River (祇園白川), offering a serene and almost cinematic backdrop. Its kitchen is currently helmed by Chef Hana Yoon, a talented Korean chef entrusted with the day-to-day operations and execution of Jean-Georges’ vision.

Chef Jean-Georges is globally celebrated for his ability to blend modern cooking techniques with French, American and Asian flavors. At The Shinmonzen, the menu reflects this signature style, with a focus on seasonal Kyoto ingredients, precise technique, and artful presentation.

The restaurant design, much like the hotel, is a tasteful fusion of modern architecture and traditional Kyoto aesthetics, with a minimalist dining room that opens onto a small terrace overlooking the river.

There’s also a small counter area for guests who enjoy watching the chefs in action. A peek behind the culinary curtain.

We began with a warm buttermilk scone, paired with handmade butter from Normandy. A simple yet elegant start that set the tone for the meal.

Bread was immediately followed by two small nibbles. The first was sweet corn soup served in a tiny bowl, delicately infused with perilla flowers. The floral note gave the soup a subtle earthiness, balancing the natural sweetness of the corn.

The second, a crispy sushi, with a thin slice of salmon over battered rice. Texturally playful.

Tuna tartare, ginger marinade, spicy radish – One of Chef Jean Georges’ most iconic dishes that I had the pleasure of having on a number of occasions but with slightly different variations each time (for example, as tuna ribbons).

The red tuna tartare was stacked on a tower of avocado purée and topped with finely shredded radish, finished off by a ginger soy marinade that was thick, intense, and fiery.

This was a dish I’ve enjoyed a few times in the past. Once bold and exciting, it now felt like it has run its course. Perhaps it's time this classic gets an innovative refresh.

Kato Farm pork chop, prosciutto – A thick cut of pork marinated with dill and Parmesan, and wrapped in a slice of fatty prosciutto. The pork was flavorful, but its slightly chewy texture took away from the overall experience. I did enjoy the sweet and sour nectarine, a clever touch to cut through the richness of the pork.

Passion fruit flower – Beautifully plated meringue flower with another intense and vibrant sauce, this time made primarily with passion fruit. 

Hidden inside was a rich hazelnut praline and caramel centre, providing a deep, nutty contrast to the bright acidity of the passion fruit. For me, this was the best dish of the afternoon.

Some jelly candies and chocolate to wrap up the meal.

A meal at a Jean-Georges establishment comes with pedigree and naturally, high expectations. While the setting was undeniably charming and elegant, very few dishes if any stood out this afternoon, leaving us wanting more.

Some of the dishes, such as the tuna tartare (which I had the pleasure of having at JG Tokyo and his flagship restaurant in NYC before), felt tired and uninspired, echoing a style that may have impressed a decade ago but now feels in need of reinvention. Service was professional but not exceptionally warm or memorable. So, while I wouldn’t say I was disappointed, neither was I wowed.

Food Rating: 6.7/10

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 235 Nishinocho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, 605-0088, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Gion-Shijo / Kyoto-Kawaramachi

Tel: +81 (0)75 600-2055

Website: https://theshinmonzen.com/dining/

Opening Hours: 7:00am - 9:30am, 12:00pm - 1:30pm, 5:30pm - 8:30pm daily

La Maison Jouvaud (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★★★☆

We have another full day of activities ahead of us in Kyoto. It’s our third time visiting Japan’s ancient capital on this trip and today, we’re taking things very slowly. Just going with the flow.

Since our lunch spot was going to be near Shirakawa Canal (祇園白川), I took the opportunity to explore the picturesque area just north of Shijo-dori. Due to its proximity, I also couldn’t resist checking out a charming French patisserie and tea salon just around the corner.

Founded in 1948 in Provence of southern France, La Maison Jouvaud is a renowned patisserie that blends traditional French pastry-making with modern flair. Now run by the third generation of the Jouvaud family, the brand has built a strong presence in Japan, with boutiques and cafés in Tokyo (Hiroo, Toranomon), Nagoya, and Kyoto (Gion). The Gion branch opened in 2018 and fits perfectly into the historic charm of the district.

Even before this trip, I had already heard a lot about La Maison Jouvaud. In fact, we stumbled upon one of their original shops in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue during our summer holidays in France last year. So, naturally, I was curious to see how their French pastries translated here in Kyoto especially those made with Japanese ingredients.

Fascinated by their French pastries made with Japanese ingredients, I decided to get a closer look.

With another half an hour to go before lunch, maybe just maybe I could get myself a piece of cake at this quiet corner?

If I could start every morning with a sweet breakfast like this, I’d be a very happy camper!

Tarte aux Pêches (900 yen) – A French tart made with a whole white peach. Yes, you read that right!

It's currently white peach season in Japan, so not surprisingly, white peach-themed desserts are everywhere.

The thick slice of peach was incredibly juicy, pairing beautifully with the light peach-flavored custard cream and a buttery tart shell. It was simple but absolutely satisfying.

I didn't expect much from the ceylon tea (600 yen).

This was my first time walking along the Shirakawa Canal, and it truly lived up to its reputation. The willow-lined waterways, traditional wooden architecture, and serene atmosphere made it feel like a step back in time. No wonder so many couples were taking their wedding photos here this afternoon.

Food Rating: 7/10

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 71-5 Motoyoshicho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, 605-0933, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Gion-Shijo / Kyoto-Kawaramachi

Tel: +81 (0)75 525-5211

Website: https://www.patisserie-jouvaud.jp/

Opening Hours: 11:00am - 6:00pm (Mon - Thu), 11:00am - 7:00pm (Fri - Sun) 

RAU Patisserie & Chocolate (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★★★☆

Before leaving Kyoto, I managed to squeeze out just enough time for a detour to one of my all-time favorite dessert spots in the city — RAU Patisserie & Chocolate, a place that continues to redefine pastry as edible art.

Tucked away on the third floor of Good Nature Station, just a short stroll from Kyoto-Kawaramachi Station, RAU is a modern, minimalist space that immediately sets the tone for what’s to come — pastries that are as visually stunning as they are delicious.

They have long offered a small variety of homemade gelato around here.

It seems like the lineup of baked goods has quietly expanded since my last visit.

But I was here on a mission — to dive into their world of innovative, boundary-pushing desserts, all of which are displayed like jewels on the counter table.

The namesake dessert, Rau (綠), is shaped like a fallen leaf resting gently on a stone — a nod to nature, impermanence, and artistry.

Rau (綠) (1,650 yen) – From the moment I cut through the delicate white chocolate crust, I was immediately met with an aromatic burst of jasmine tea mousse and a vibrant tropical fruit compote — a medley of pineapple, mango, celery, and dill.

It’s an unexpected combination that works beautifully, balanced with a subtle acidity and floral sweetness. A drizzle of pear sauce, scented with jasmine flowers, ties the entire composition together nicely with poise and elegance.

Every visit to RAU gives me a new perspective on the evolving world of pastry, all thanks to the artistic vision of chef Yusuke Matsushita. His creations aren’t just desserts — they’re stories told through texture, temperature, and taste.

This place has become a fixture on my Kyoto itinerary, and with each return trip, I leave even more inspired.

Food Rating: 7.6/10

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 3/F Good Nature Station, 1-318-6 Inaricho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto, 600-8031, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Kyoto-Kawaramachi

Tel: +81 (0)75 352-3724

Website: www.rau-kyoto.com

Opening Hours: 10:00am - 7:00pm daily

BABBI Gelateria Kyoto (Kyoto, JAPAN) ★★☆☆☆

On my way to Waguri Senmon Saori (和栗専門 紗織) — our go-to spot in Kyoto for impossibly delicate Japanese chestnut desserts, I happened to stroll past BABBI Gelateria, a sleek little dessert spot that immediately caught my eye. We were already running a bit behind for our reservation, so I made a mental note to circle back later.

And to my credit, I actually kept my promise.

BABBI is, of course, the famed Italian confectioner best known for its luxuriously crisp wafers and artisanal chocolates. What I didn’t know — until that day — was that they were in the gelato business as well. Naturally, curiosity got the better of me.

Inside, a vibrant display of 18 different gelato flavors awaited. I was still full from my chestnut-heavy dessert next door, so I played it safe and just went for a single scoop of black sesame gelato.

This was when the whole experience started to go sideways.

Since there were terrace seats overlooking Kamo River (鴨川), I politely asked the staff if I could take a few minutes to enjoy my cone there. The answer was a flat no — the terrace was for guests ordering from a more “sophisticated” (read: expensive) menu. OK, fair enough.

Then, just as I was about to step outside, the skies opened up and it started pouring. With no umbrella in sight, I turned back and asked if I could take a seat on one of the empty benches inside — just until the rain let up.

Again, a hard no.

Apparently, those benches were “reserved” for guests waiting for terrace seating. Except... there was literally no one else there (see left side of the picture). Not a single soul waiting. But the staff — several of them — were collectively unmoved.

I ended up sitting just outside the gelateria, where one lonely bench saved me from a completely soggy fate. The irony? As I quietly enjoyed my gelato under the drizzle, I couldn’t help but feel that the staff’s coldness left a much stronger aftertaste than the gelato itself.

Well, the gelato itself was fine. Silky, creamy, and intensely nutty, with the kind of deep-roasted black sesame flavor.

In all my years visiting Japan and they’re too many to count, this was one of the very few times I felt genuinely unwelcome at a café or restaurant. And it wasn’t just one staff member having a bad day. It was a shared attitude, from the servers to what looked like senior staff.

Honestly, I expect treatment like this in Hong Kong, maybe even in parts of Europe. But in Japan? This was a rare and disappointing exception.

Food Rating: 6/10

Price: ￥￥￥

Address: 134 Saitocho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto, 600-8012, Japan

Closest Metro Station: Gion-Shijo / Kyoto-Kawaramachi

Tel: +81 (0)75 585-5200

Website: http://www.babbi.co.jp/

Opening Hours: 1:00pm - 9:30pm daily