Monday, August 22, 2016

Le Môle Passedat La Table at MuCEM (Marseille, FRANCE) ★★★☆☆

We have a very tight 48-hour schedule in Marseille which pretty much rules out a visit to the three Michelin-starred Le Petit Nice by Gérald Passédat but that doesn't necessarily mean we can't experience the wonderful cuisine designed by Marseille's most famous chef.

We were starting our day off at the historic Fort Saint Jean and after going over the bridge that flies across the water, we finally landed at the Museum of the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean (MuCEM). What an amazing site it was by the waterfront.

The entire architecture is highlighted by patterns that resemble tree-like columns, long-span beams and fishnet façade. Very interesting.

There was another mission we had coming into MuCEM this afternoon - to experience chef Gérald Passédat's imaginative cuisine at Le Môle Passedat La Table. Not to be mistaken with Le Môle Passedat La Cuisine, which is a canteen style café next door, La Table is a smart chic bistrot serving the chef's version of modern bistro food (There's a cover charge of €55 per head.) at this beautifully decorated premise.

We had a clear view of Cathédrale La Major right from the window. That was very nice.

Our amuse bouche was a simple dish made with cuttlefish and green onion.

That was immediately followed by my first course which was the chef's take on the classic spinach and ricotta cheese cannelloni. The rolled pasta was nicely stuffed full with spinach and ricotta and then simmered in a warm spinach soup. That was quite fulfilling.

Another starter was skate wing served with pickles, purple onion and a red pepper sauce.

Octopus with radish, peas and fresh pasta was easily the least successful dish on the afternoon. The flavorful meat jus added something different to an otherwise uneventful dish with a boring combination of textures and flavors.

Fare a lot better was the other main dish, roasted baby lamb with a casserole of white beans, oyster mushrooms, artichoke and tomatoes.

This was perfect to offset the richness of the baby lamb which was absolutely tender and juicy.

Dessert was back on the right track first with a very thoughtful dish of rhubarb confit. Strips of confit rhubarb were curled to form the base of this mushroom-shaped dessert which was then topped with brousse du rove goat cheese and tuile made with black rice. That was pretty good.

The other dessert was a chocolate cake made in the shape of MuCEM. It was served with a scoop of ice-cream, which I thought was oatmeal flavored. Not the best chocolate cake I have ever had but full marks for the creativity and imagination.

Now that our mission has completed, it's time to start our afternoon activities which would begin with a visit to Cathédrale La Major.

Food Rating: 5.5/10
Price: €€€
Address: 1 Esplanade du J4, 13002 Marseille, France
Tel: +33 (0)4 9119-1780

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