La Villa Madie is our second three Michelin starred experience of this trip, immediately following yesterday's
impressive lunch at L'Oustau de Baumanière. Located in the coastal town of
Cassis, this fine-dining restaurant boasts stunning cliffs and beaches right in its backyard.
Prior to 2022, La Villa Madie was considered a hidden gem in southern Provence. The restaurant, which had held two stars since 2017, made a surprising leap to the prestigious three-star status in 2022.
Owner-chef Dimitri Droisneau, originally from Normandy, possesses an exceptional resume that includes experience in some of France's finest kitchens such as La Tour d'Argent, Lucas Carton and Ambroisie.
At La Villa Madie, they have a menu with an oceanic theme to match the breathtaking seaside view. Needless to say, we are in for a very special treat.
Before the trip, I was given the option to sit indoor or outdoor and without much hesitation, I have requested an outdoor seat with a view to the beach. That sounded like a pretty good decision now.
Although we certainly won't mind going all out for the tables under the sun!
We were first started off with a refreshing welcome drink made with garden herbs and flowers.
It was immediately followed by an amazing array of amuse bouche.
Shrimp tartare sprinkled with coffee powder was served on a spoon.
Refreshing summer soup made with watermelon and cucumber finished off with a touch of olive oil, accompanied by a spoonful of summer salad.
Pita bread with olive and capers delivering a vibrant burst of sharp acidity.
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Last but not least, a small Provençal-style ratatouille covered nicely by a layer of refreshing onion foam. This was served up with a tiny seaweed sandwich with some sort of smoked vegetable purée in the middle. If this is for the purpose of stimulating our palate and getting our taste buds prepared for the meal ahead, they have achieved exactly that!
A further amuse bouche showed up in the form a chickpea tart with cheese and garlic and I've forgotten all about the second nibble.
Red mullet, sea urchin – This was not part of the set menu so I took it as another nibble to kick off the meal as well. Red mullet carpaccio was beautifully presented on a bed of crispy pastry with an accompanying sea urchin emulsion serving as a dip.
The tender and flaky red mullet with its typical delicate and mild flavor, but there was the sea urchin emulsion adding a rich umami note to elevate the dish.
A brioche topped with sea salt came with the carpaccio so we could use for soaking up the flavorful sauce.
Toutreau crab, crab ice-cream, garden herbs, consommé – A small tower of Toutreau crab meat elegantly crowned by a scoop of crab ice-cream (tasted more like crab roe) was finished with a nice pour of chilled consommé made with the crab shells.
The delightful dish was garnished with fresh garden herbs, adding a burst of flavor and color to the mix, and there was the finishing touch by the consommé enhancing the overall flavor profile with its rich, savory essence.
A few of these madeleine were served on the side in case we wanted to dip into the umami-rich consommé. This was very pleasing to the eye.
Seabass, oyster, lime, sancho – Beautifully cooked French seabass with a satisfying foam made with oysters by Pascal Migliore delivering a briny sea water flavor that complemented the sweetness of the fish brilliantly. The dish was further enhanced by the zesty notes of lime and the subtle spice of sansho pepper, creating an incredible balance of flavors.
Turbot, tomato, tarragon – Next up was turbot grilled with tomato which was served with a few different condiments highlighted by a powerful tomato and tarragon emulsion in the middle, and juice from the turbot which was then flavored with saffron. There was a side dish of a gorgeous vegetable tart topped with lettuce, caramelized onions, zucchini, tomatoes, mushrooms and baby turnip.
Rabbit, lobster – Our main course was a delicious fricassée of rabbit and lobster. The superbly cooked lobster was nice but it was the rabbit rolls made from different parts of the rabbit that stole the show here. I particularly loved the creamy liver bringing out the best of the gaminess from the dish.
The sauce was a wonderful symphony of flavors and fragrances starting with a rich red wine reduction and tarragon foam (again?), which was infused with the sweetness of raspberry jam and grapes, complemented by the savory notes of onion, shallot and celeriac. Easily my favorite dish of the afternoon.
A small bite of what I thought was deep-fried celeriac came as a side dish.
Vanilla flan, praline, rum – We have two desserts on the menu this afternoon and the first to arrive was a vanilla flan made with Madagascar vanilla and praline. Small Dabs of vinegar and rum from La Maison Ferroni, 20 minutes from the restaurant further enriched the vanilla notes while creating a more balanced mix of flavors.
All around the fig – I love French figs and this was surely right up my alley with the dessert building around different textures of figs from Valence.
In the centerpiece, we have the fig tower stuffed with fresh figs topped nicely by a layer of fig jelly. A refreshing verbena sorbet added herby notes to the dessert, while a light green foam made with fig leaf tied everything together with its thick, gluey texture and minty note.
And we have more figs to come, roasted fig with its leaf. Very natural sweetness and clean flavors there.