Yardbird (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★☆☆

It’s been a while since I last dined at Yardbird, the acclaimed modern Japanese izakaya renowned for its yakitori dishes. I heard they have recently moved from one corner of Sheung Wan to another, so I guess it’s a good time to catch up with them at its new spot. The new location sits near the cluster of local seafood shops in Sheung Wan, about a 10-minute walk from the MTR station.

It was a Friday night and as expected, the place was buzzing. Loud music and the lively chatter of diners filled the room. Sure enough, the energy was vibrant, although perhaps a bit overwhelming (I guess I am getting old). 

Thankfully, I was seated at the bar, slightly removed from the main crowd, offering a bit of calm amidst the chaos.

Seared yellowtail salad ($198) – I started things off a salad, and a BIG one I might add. The slices of marinated yellowtail tuna was lightly seared and served atop a bed of garden greens dressed with yuzu kosho and ponzu. That was a refreshing start although the portion would have been more suited for sharing rather than for solo dining.

Oyster, sea salt, lemon ($56) – Nicely charred with a hint of smokiness. The crispy skin and tender meat paired beautifully with the zesty lemon. A lovely skewer to warm up the palate.

Tail, sake, sea salt ($52) – The texture was perfectly bouncy with a satisfying crunch. The subtle sake flavor and nice sprinkle of sea salt delivered a sublime finish. Hands down the best item of the night! 識食就梗係食雞囉柚！

Meatball, tare, egg yolk ($56) – Like the oyster, this was nicely charred but I preferred those with soft bones in the middle for some extra bite.

Rib, sansho, tare ($52) – Bouncy but a bit too chewy for me. The seasoning with sancho brought another twist to the meat with its unique and complex flavors.

Wing, sea salt, shichimi ($52) - A must whenever I visit a yakitori restaurant.  I thought the crispy skin and juicy flesh of the wing really stood out but the seasoning with shichimi (七味粉) was way too heavy-handed for me.

When it comes to wings, a light sprinkle of sea salt already does the trick for me.

Achilles, garlic butter, thyme ($65) – Likely one of the most exercised part of the chicken, and it showed from its lean and firm texture.

I couldn’t tell for sure due to the dim lights but I thought the meat was a tad undercooked in the centre. It was probably the least satisfying skewer as the flavor mostly came from the seasoning rather than the meat itself.

I didn’t get the chance to try their signature dishes like KFC and sweet corn tempura as I was getting quite full after the six skewers.

Overall, it was a solid night out. Yardbird still delivers some of the best yakitori in town, although I would personally prefer a lighter touch on the seasoning. And while the energy of the place was undeniable, the noise level was a bit much for me. Perhaps a sign that I'm not getting any younger.

Food Rating: 6.8/10

Price: $$$$

Address: G/F, 154-158 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Closest Metro Station: Sheung Wan

Tel: +852 2547-9273

Opening Hours: 6:00pm - 12:00am (Tue - Sat)