Our team has hit a major milestone this week and like the previous year, I’ve decided to treat myself to a decent lunch on the following Friday afternoon as a small celebration. A bigger celebration would come a day after from our short trip to Fukuoka.
It’s been almost a year since I last visited Caprice and I was looking forward to my first three Michelin starred experience in 2023.
I was first presented with a nice selection of bread. This looked similar to the one I got from Gaddi’s not too long ago, and I was all too happy to start things off with this duo of bacon and onion roll and milk bun.
Bread was immediately followed by a melon-themed amuse bouche.
Thin slices of fresh melon and melon gelée were plated beautifully on top of a base of yoghurt cream and port wine jelly delivering an interesting match of acidity (yoghurt) and sweetness (melon) which was pretty refreshing for the palate.
Poached lobster, Madras curry, coconut milk – The multi-layered dish featured slices of poached lobster atop layers of curried coconut cream and what I thought was tandoori powder.
But what made this dish special for me was the spherication part, with a sphere of tomato gelée (orange ball on top) providing some explosiveness to complement the stringy lobster and spicy curry coconut milk. I guess everyone loves spherication every now and then!
Royal lentils, obsiblue prawns – I have decided to pick the Royal lentils soup over the refreshing sweet corn soup for a change.
Texture-wise, this was looking good on paper with the crunchy lentils, pillowy bacon egg custard and velvety obsiblue prawn tartare forming a “nice marriage”. But too bad it didn’t translate into success with the lentil flavors way too strong (and salty) for the rest of the ingredients. The result? The flavors from the obsiblue prawn hardly registered.
French veal, ginger, carrot – Superbly cooked French veal was served with baby carrots, bacon and chives. There was a carrot and ginger pudding topped with carrot carpaccio, another nice offering that was served on the side. A powerful saffron sauce provided the dish with a well-rounded finish.
Cherry clafoutis, cherry amaretto sorbet, yoghurt mousse – Dessert was cherry clafoutis with cherry amaretto sorbet and yoghurt mousse.
Another refreshing episode from the meal.
Tea was served up with a bowl of French brown sugar, which my server claimed to be a healthy alternative to the ordinary sugar. It was nice to hear the word “healthy” while enjoying an exquisite French fine-dining meal which is more often than not, considered unhealthy.
Some lovely mignandises including lemon creamy puff, hazelnut praline chocolate and
vanilla milk gel tart to go with my hot tea.
Service was excellent again this afternoon. I gave my server an impossible mission to speed up the entire meal while not disrupting the flow and he, along with the help of the kitchen achieved exactly that. The meal took a little more than an hour to complete and despite some ups (lobster, veal) and downs (lentil soup), the dining experience was easily one of the best I’ve had all year. But would we expect anything less?
Price: $$$$
Address: 6/F, 8 Finance Street, Four Seasons Hotel, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Hong Kong Station
Tel: +852 3196-8860
Website: www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/caprice
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 2:30pm, 6:30pm - 10:30pm daily
S. Pellegrino Asia's 50 Best Restaurants: 49th (2023)
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