Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Maison Pic (Valence, FRANCE) ★★★★★

Maison Pic is a world-renowned culinary institution and five-star hotel in Valence, France. It has been defined by four generations of the Pic family spanning over a century. It is also home to Chef Anne-Sophie Pic, the only female chef in France to currently hold three Michelin stars.



While we’ve been busy exploring different parts of Central France, there’s no secret that we’ve been looking forward to two of the biggest meals of this trip — this one at Maison Pic, followed by La Maison Troisgros.


It wasn’t a particularly busy afternoon at the restaurant, so we were able to enjoy a few photos of the elegant dining room before turning our attention to the menu.

 

Like Chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s cuisine which is visually appealing, minimalist, and reminiscent of modern art, the main dining room captures that same spirit.



The trio of nibbles set a highly sophisticated tone for the rest of our afternoon. There was a crispy ball with a centre of escargot, a cracker with sake-marinated mackerel, and what I thought was a curried marshmallow.



A further amuse-bouche was one of the chef’s most iconic opening bites: a visually stunning dish featuring multiple textures of thinly sliced carrots, delicate carrot jelly, and vibrant orange infusions. The carrots were infused with espuma wine yogurt, jasmine flowers, and an emulsion of Madagascar black pepper creating a refreshing yet complex flavor.



Tomatoes, smoked vanilla burrata ice-cream — Provence’s naturally explosive summer tomatoes were served in a blackcurrant leaf and elderflower glaze, finished brilliantly with smoked vanilla burrata ice cream.


Berlingots, Banon cheese — Berlingots are one of the chef’s signature dishes. The matcha tea-based pyramid-shaped pasta purses (hence the green color) filled with smoked mascarpone and goat cheese, were placed on top of a consommé made with ginger, watercress, and bergamot. Served on the side is a bao (steamed bun) to dip into the flavorful consommé.


Abalone, Kombu seaweed — Thin slices of abalone, cooked in kombu seaweed butter, were beautifully served in an umami-rich dashi with Namibian sage, rosat geranium, lemon balm, and young leeks. There was gentle acidity (from the lemon balm) and minty notes (from the Namibian sage), helping to balance the richness of the dish.


Langoustine, trap-caught shellfish butter, celery — Another visually stunning dish highlighted by its bright, vibrant colors. 

The chef’s cuisine is driven by an unparalleled mastery of aroma, and this elegance fully delivered: langoustine cooked à la plancha, paired with celery batons, and finished with a palate-awakening sauce made from green apple, Meyer lemon, and dill oil. This was definitely my favorite dish in our degustation menu.


Blue lobster, raspberry-barberry chutney — Superbly roasted in lobster butter, the blue lobster was served in the chef’s signature berry dashi, re-interpreted in recent years.


Instead of the earlier version that combined the acidity of wild strawberries and raspberries with the spiciness of green pepper and the freshness of celery, the berry dashi now incorporates the smokiness of bonito flakes and kombu seaweed for a greater balance. It was an ingenious combination of sweetness, bitterness, acidity, and smokiness — all within the same dashi.


Tarbouriech oysters — The warm oyster was paired with a complex, savoury sauce inspired by an Irish coffee. It included a highly aromatic infusion of rare Bourbon Pointu coffee prepared tableside in a Chemex pot.


Like many dishes from the chef, the dashi had a strong focus on acidity and bitterness. This time, rhubarb took centre stage, bringing its lovely acidity to the mix.


John Dory, long green cucumber — I initially thought it was a chicken dish, but it turned out to be John Dory served with a herbal, grassy, and slightly minty green zebra bouillon made with woodruff, green tomato, and verbena.



Matured, marinated beef, baby carrots — The inspiration of this dish came from the traditional French French beef casserole. Highland beef was marinated with a host of ingredients, including Zacapa rum, Vietnamese Phu-Quoc pepper, sobacha, Japanese buckwheat, and São Tomé Liberica coffee creating a sophisticated depth of flavor. The baby carrots provided tangy sweetness thanks to the addition of kaffir lime.


Aveyron lamb, poivrade artichoke — More delicious was the lamb from Aveyron. The rack and loin were beautifully cooked and worked together seamlessly with their own jus, spices, and artichoke.


Brie de Meaux, Bourbon vanilla — We were offered a different pre-dessert before our "real" dessert. As a Bourbon vanilla lover, I love this one. The runny, artisanal cow's milk cheese (Brie de Meaux) whipped into an incredibly smooth emulsion was cleverly lifted by the addition of Bourbon vanilla. An incredibly stunning dish with beautifully balanced flavors—indulgent and rich, yet still light and elegant.


Raspberry, beetroot, coffee 
— I didn’t have this one, so I couldn’t judge the taste for myself. But Jelloman shared that her pre-dessert which was marshmallow-like in texture, came with really impressive flavors. Again, the sauce was the catalyst (how many times did I say this?) — a nice blend of raspberry, beetroot, and coffee.



White mille-feuille — The chef's signature filled with a luxurious Tahitian vanilla light cream.


Hidden inside the sharp white cube was the mille-feuille itself layered with what I thought was a delicate, fragrant jasmine tea jelly. Very very tasty and highly addictive.


Bitter honey chocolate — Shaped like a natural honeycomb, this iconic dessert featured Valrhona’s 63% dark chocolate cuvée and deeply aromatic bitter honey harvested locally, and an exquisite panna cotta infused with real beeswax to add rich, comforting creaminess that rounded out the chocolate’s high acidity and bitterness. It was a remarkable dessert celebrated for its contrast of textures — crispy, meticulously piped chocolate waves paired with smooth, runny fillings.


A collection of mignardises wrapped up the culinary journey in style.



After the meal, we spent some time walking around the culinary temple. 


Spanning over 130 years, the establishment’s rich history follows a legacy of earning, losing, and reclaiming the highest honour in gastronomy.


The storyline is hidden inside these little red books.


Despite being completely self-taught, Chef Anne-Sophie Pic relies heavily on a highly intellectual, sensory-driven approach using textures, colors, and aroma through a harmonious blend of ingredients to achieve the perfect balance. The visual presentation of her dishes adds to the appeal. Her hugely impressive cuisine was classy, elegant, precise and sophisticated. We were genuinely humbled to have the opportunity to meet the chef herself and to enjoy a meal of this caliber during our summer trip in France.




Food Rating: 9.9/10
Price: €€€€
Address: 285 Avenue Victor Hugo, 26000 Valence, France
Tel: +33 (0)4 7544-1532
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 1:00pm, 7:00pm - 8:15pm daily



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