Sunday, April 18, 2021

Salisterra at The Upper House (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★☆☆

It was sad to see the closure of Cafe Gray Deluxe at The Upper House earlier this year. The once-iconic modern European restaurant on top of the skyscraper boutique hotel in Admiralty used to be a favorite of mine but like many other landmark eateries in the city, it failed to stand the test of time (during the pandemic). In comes Salisterra, a Mediterranean restaurant in collaboration with celebrity Chef Jun Tanaka of one-Michelin-starred French-Mediterranean restaurant The Ninth London.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK

After the three month-long renovation, we finally heard whispers about Salisterra soft-opening this weekend. So, we decided to book ourselves a table for a late brunch on a lazy Sunday.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK

Other than a few touch-ups, Salisterra looks every bit the same as its predecessor. The incredible and for the most part, unobstructed harbour view remains intact from some of the tables by the window.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK

Our brunch started off brightly with some homemade bread. 


Burrata, Green Gazpacho ($185) - We wanted something refreshing (and healthy) to start off the meal and this was the perfect choice. 

The thick slab of burrata served on a crispy sourdough toast was topped with sorrel and baby spinach. The dish was finished off with our server pouring the green gazpacho (watercress?) all over it.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK - Burrata, Green Gazpacho

I have to admit, I didn't like the dish at first glance. It lacks the sharp and attractive color but this proved to be just a perception. There was nothing but a symphony of interesting flavors. Really clean, fresh and aromatic with a lovely hint of mint. 

Salisterra at The Upper House HK - Burrata, Green Gazpacho

Crab Eggs Benedict ($175) - A brunch isn't complete without an egg benedict in play.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK - Crab Eggs Benedict

These were topped with loads of crab meat (almost like a crab cake!) but unfortunately, a little heavy handed with the seasoning.   

Salisterra at The Upper House HK - Crab Eggs Benedict

Grilled Urgasa Poussin ($285) - The two main dishes were both better than the benedict. 

The young French chicken, roasted to perfection, was matched with some lovely acidity from  the preserved lemon and radish salad.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK - Grilled Urgasa Poussin

Pan-fried Sea Bream ($265) - The beautifully cooked sea bream was served on a bed of 
pesto minestrone with clams, cherry tomatoes and watercress. Interestingly, it was finished off with a broth similar to the one served with the burrata earlier.

Salisterra at The Upper House HK - Pan-fried Sea Bream

As expected, service was a little spotty in their opening week. The brunch menu was a short one that reminded me a little of the lunch menu from Cafe Gray Deluxe's good old days thanks to the organic and healthy dishes but without the Asian twist. But if you're looking for a fine-dining experience, this won't be your cup of tea (tables too close, place too noisy...).





Food Rating: 6/10
Price: $$$$
Address: 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Admiralty
Tel: +852 3968-1106
Opening Hours: 6:30am - 10:00pm daily



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