Caprice (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

My buddy St Paul is back in town for only 40 hours and I had the distinct pleasure of having lunch with him on his lone full day here. Needless to say, I wanted to make the most of it.

Over the past few years, the restaurants in the Four Seasons Hotel have become my go-to options for entertaining overseas guests. I guess you can’t really go wrong with Caprice and Noi when it comes to impressing friends from abroad. They truly are as good as it gets. This afternoon, it was Caprice getting the call.

While there are always unlimited conversation topics between the two of us, we decided to take a pause for a taste of Caprice’s fine bread selection.

They apparently have a new amuse bouche to kick off 2026 (OK, it’s my first visit in 2026). It’s a refreshing bite of sea bream sashimi, drizzled with white miso sauce, and served on a bed of diced cucumber.

Green asparagus, verbena, lemon, spring jelly — Asparagus season is here, so not surprisingly, it’s prominently featured on the menu. The slices, spears, and gelée made from green asparagus from Provence, were beautifully paired with lovely acidity from verbena and lemon cream. Fresh, clean, and satisfying to the palate, it’s the perfect formula for a successful appetizer.

My Hot and Cold onion soup — This is one of those dishes I’ve had on many occasions, yet I never get tired of it. 

The hot-and-cold contrast is a perfect move on a hot, humid day, quickly whetting the appetite and setting the tone for the courses ahead.

Dover sole, white asparagus, curry, vanilla — French Dover sole, served with wood-smoked white asparagus, was finished with seaweed powder and an emulsion made from curry, vanilla, and coconut. It was undeniably exotic, and sweet at the same time. While the combination of flavors and textures was certainly interesting, I wasn't entirely sure if it worked for me personally.

Yellow chicken, pea, verbena — The grilled yellow chicken, cut into little square pieces, was succulent and wonderfully complemented by baby carrots and a range of pea variations — poached, purée, and emulsion. A refreshing verbena sauce provided the perfect finishing lift.

I especially loved the crunch of the fresh peas. It played brilliantly with the richness of the chicken.

Valhrona chocolate ganache, black olive praline, dill — I thought this would be another “ordinary” chocolate dessert, but it turned out to be anything but. 

The dessert came with dill sorbet, laid over a bed of basil sponge and biscuit, along with dark chocolate ganache and black olive praline. On the first bite, the grassy notes from the basil were immediately noticeable, alongside a hint of mint layered over the deep chocolate and olive character. Pretty intriguing and definitely memorable.

The usual mignardises: Hazelnut rocher, praline chocolate and I think this is a new one, a strawberry tart with diplomat cream.

St Paul and I had never stopped talking since we met this morning. It was nice to catch up with him after his life-changing big date, and even better to finally share a three-Michelin-starred experience together to celebrate our steadfast friendship.

Food Rating: 7.6/10
Price: $$$$
Address: 6/F, 8 Finance Street, Four Seasons Hotel, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Hong Kong Station
Tel: +852 3196-8860
Website: www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/caprice
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 2:30pm, 6:30pm - 10:30pm daily

S. Pellegrino Asia's 50 Best Restaurants: 35th (2026)