Frassi (Taipei, TAIWAN) ★★★★☆

I am kicking off my weekend getaway in Taipei with an exquisite lunch at Frassi, a contemporary Italian restaurant that has been on my radar for quite some time. Situated in a building at No. 299, Lequn 3rd Road, alongside Michelin-starred establishments like Taïrroir (態芮), Frassi is helmed by Iacopo Frassi, the former chef de cuisine at the Mandarin Oriental Taipei. With his namesake restaurant, Chef Frassi skillfully combines culinary memories of Tuscany with modern gastronomic techniques, promising a unique dining experience.

From my very first interaction via email, I sensed the professionalism of the Frassi team. Their communication was not only polite but also methodical, showcasing an impressive command of English. This attention to detail set a positive tone even before I stepped through the door.

I chose a seat at the counter table, eager to witness Chef Frassi and his team in action. This turned out to be a fantastic decision. 

Right before my eyes, I saw the bustling kitchen where Chef Frassi and his crew executed their culinary artistry with precision and flair.

Mondeghili di bonito, smoked eggplant, olive oil caviar – The omakase lunch started off with a delightful small bite: a crispy tartlet topped with Mondeghili di bonito, smoked eggplant, and olive oil caviar. My server explained that this dish was inspired by traditional Italian meatballs. The balance of smoky flavors coupled with the velvety texture of the bonito created a harmonious beginning to my meal and set the perfect tone for what was to follow.

Following this was the homemade sourdough bread and signature grissini. The timing was impeccable, as the aroma and warmth of the bread helped to awaken my appetite for the courses ahead.

Calamari a la plancha, homemade mayo, endive – Next up, al dente calamari, beautifully plated and garnished with three types of dressing — squid ink, parsley, and tomato. The presentation was nothing short of a work of art. Accompanied by four varieties of salad greens drizzled with a lemon citrus dressing, the crunchy calamari complemented the vivid flavors of the dressings. However, I found the citrus notes somewhat overpowering, slightly overshadowing the natural sweetness of the calamari.

Rabbit ragu, salsa verde, parmesan – The pasta course soon followed. A dish featuring superbly cooked al dente pasta laid upon a bed of vibrant salsa verde and extra virgin olive oil, topped with a rich parmesan foam.

After savoring the visual appeal, a generous portion of rabbit ragu cooked in red wine was poured atop the warm pasta.

It was followed by a delicate shower of black truffle from France. 

This dish was a comforting masterpiece, complemented by the gamey richness of the rabbit ragu while the black truffle added an aromatic finish.

After a brief interlude in service, my meat dish finally arrived. Deep-fried, battered veal chop, a classic Italian delicacy. 

Veal Cotoletta, arugula, tomato, green bean – Accompanied by local arugula, fresh tomato tartare, and green beans, the dish was a symphony of flavors and textures. The thinly sliced veal was perfectly cooked, and the crispy breadcrumb batter provided an exhilarating crunch, making each bite a joy.

A side dish of smoked potato espuma was an unexpected highlight. 

The subtle smokiness added a fascinating layer to the otherwise smooth and creamy potato, enhancing the overall experience.

Barbajada, chocolate, coffee – As the meal neared its conclusion, an exquisite dessert made its appearance. Layers of chocolate cookies, coffee cream, and mascarpone cream were artfully stacked together, finished off with a scoop of luxurious milk gelato and a drizzle of rich chocolate ganache. 

While this dessert was decadent, I found myself craving something slightly lighter to cleanse the palate after a series of rich flavors.

To cap it all off, an iced tea was served alongside a 40% dark chocolate bon bon infused with balsamic vinegar. This combination provided a unique finale to the meal, though the flavor pairing was a rather intriguing choice.

Overall, I was immensely impressed with the entire team at Frassi. The seamless collaboration between the kitchen and service staff resulted in a Michelin-worthy experience — something that can be hit or miss at other Michelin-starred venues in Taipei. Dining at the counter table not only allowed me a glimpse into the artistic process behind each dish, but it also heightened my enjoyment, creating a truly memorable culinary journey.

Frassi is a gem worth visiting, and I can’t wait to return for another unforgettable meal!

Food Rating: 7.7/10

Price: $$$$

Address: No.299 Lequn 3rd Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei, Taiwan

Closest Metro Station: Jiannan Rd

Tel: +886 2-8502-6383

Website: http://www.frassi.com.tw/

Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 3:00pm (Fri - Sat), 6:00pm - 10:00pm (Tue - Sat)