ÉPURE (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

Mom never stopped singing the praises of Arbor after we had lunch there more than a few months ago. Since she's so much into contemporary French cuisine these days, I thought I better introduce her to Executive Chef Nicolas Boutin's other playground, ÉPURE, which is the fine-dining sister of Arbor. It's been a while since I last visited ÉPURE but beggars can't be choosers. With their relatively strict children's policy, it will be hard-pressed for us (and our little one) to come back more often.



I didn't realize how much I missed this place until I got the chance to sit back and soak up the amazing vibe. While we were still enjoying the atmosphere around us, a couple of small nibbles were already waiting on deck. There was a red prawn cracker with yuzu, followed by a spicy tomato tart with tomato espuma, both of which delivered lovely acidity for a great start.



For me, it was followed by an amuse bouche of string bean salad with avocado purée.



Mom was offered a different amuse bouche, rockfish and lobster consommé jelly served with a spoonful of lobster meat purée and saffron chip. 



The first course for mom was baby artichoke in different textures (purée, poached and chip) with smoked eel, heirloom baby carrot and a hint of mint. It was a lovely starter with some nice acidity thanks to the vinegar dressing but mom thought it was a little too much on the acidic side.



I went with their sautéed French snails, a refreshing dish that reminded me of the chilled edamame soup with wild boar jelly and sea urchin at two Michelin-starred L’Effervescence in Tokyo. It has the same clean and refreshing flavors although slightly different ingredients in green peas, mint leaf, sorrel and French cockles but the same glorious results. The smoked garlic purée provided a strong and seductive finish.



Mom followed up her smoked eel starter with whiting fish (another fish course?) because she didn't want any meat. This was served with petit pois, fresh almond and a cracker made with cow's nose. She thought the texture of the whiting fish was not unlike cod fish. But it's a little less fatty but firmer and more flavorful.  



I was having their "Vol au vent" for the second time although this time around, I dropped some extra cash to have Icelandic langoustine instead of lobster.



The flaky butter puff ring was just seriously good. Very flaky unlike the first time which was a little too chewy for my liking. The lobster bisque, salicornia and liquorice scented coulis provided all it needed for a perfectly executed dish.



Mom couldn't wait to check out her dessert with in-season white peach, scented coriander seed and rolled oat crumble. A sweet but refreshing and fascinating end of an exceptional meal.



I had a little too much white peach of late so I opted for some raspberry, beetroot and chocolate instead.



I looove anything with beetroot in it and this was perfect. Under the sheets of beetroot wafer were Tulameen raspberry, raspberry purée and 70% Guanaja chocolate cream. What a great balance between sweetness and acidity!



As usual, a lovely set of petite fours to wrap things up.



I've always been a fan of Chef Boutin's exciting brand of modern French cooking. Following this meal, I think that makes the two of us now.




Food Rating: 7/10
Price: $$$
Address: Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852 3185-8331
Website: www.epure.hk