After striking out so many times over the past two weeks, I thought there’s no harm that I give Caprice a call. The chance is less than slim but perhaps they might have a table for us?
To my pleasant surprise, they have tables available at 12, 12:30 and 1. Now, I can finally breathe a sigh of relief.
This is my second visit since the French fine-dining restaurant re-captured their third star earlier this year. The last time I was here, there was a big storm hitting the city so I didn’t get to enjoy this amazing harbour view by the window. But on our wedding anniversary day, the guys from high above finally got it right.
Caprice’s weekend brunch is its usual 3-course ($645), 4-course ($790) or 5-course ($895) affair. One gets to choose his/her desired number of courses from four sections of the menu - Appetizer, Soup, Fish, Meat and Dessert.
We were first greeted with a small amuse, an appetite-pleasing small bite with seaweed and smoked eel on the bottom, topped nicely with a layer of potato foam, onion, celeriac and fresh chives. A remarkably palatable and refreshing dish to kick off the meal.
The first course of the menu was Hokkaido scallop carpaccio beautifully plated with red and yellow beetroot. There were dabs of lemon yogurt cream there to provide some acidity to the dish but unfortunately, not nearly enough to bring out the sweetness of the scallop.
Next up was creamy artichoke velouté served with diced artichoke, goat cheese ravioli and mint oil.
The combination of flavors wasn't a bad one but it was a bit too rich, complex and intense with the soup and ravioli working more individually rather than harmonizing each other.
For our fish course, everyone including myself picked the roasted Canadian lobster served with fig marmalade and wild mushrooms.
It was an interesting move pairing the roasted lobster with fig chutney and a fig marmalade made of fresh figs and beetroot, matching sweetness with sweetness but I thought they pulled it off nicely (without shooting themselves on the foot).
The lobster dish was immediately followed by roasted pigeon, with variations of chestnut and savory cabbage stuffed with leg confit and foie gras served on the side.
This was really well executed with the pigeon breast roasted to absolute perfection. Looooove the pink and tender flesh with the crispy skin perfectly crusted with crushed nuts. Easily the most impressive dish of the afternoon.
Ever since Executive pastry chef Nicholas Lambert left for Russia, I have been giving Caprice a hard time on their desserts. This wasn't totally bad like the cheesecake I had last time.
In fact, the hazelnut cream looked like it's working relatively well with caramel passion fruit sauce and oat crumble.
Lastly, some migrandises to send us home happy campers.
Price: $$$$
Address: 6/F, 8 Finance Street, Four Seasons Hotel, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Hong Kong Station
Tel: +852 3196-8860
Website: www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/caprice
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 2:30pm, 6:30pm - 10:30pm daily
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