Saturday, December 13, 2014

ON Dining Kitchen & Foodie Bar (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★☆☆

December is always a popular month for restaurant openings as many new restaurants try to sneak their way in before the start of the Christmas season. As a long-time follower of Chef Philippe Orrico, I have been keeping tab on his newest venture, ON Dining Kitchen & Foodie Bar which is also slated to open some time this December. 

After a much anticipated wait, I finally got some great news that the restaurant would soft open some time this week. 

Perched on the 28th and 29th floor of the newly opened 18 On Lan Street, ON Dining Kitchen & Foodie Bar combines a fine dining experience (ON28 on 28/F) with a bar scene (ON29 on 29/F) both under the same roof.



We took the elevator up to the reception area on the 29th floor and was quickly escorted down a narrow set of stairs before finally reaching the dining room.

I had a chit chat with the restaurant manager and was told that during the first weeks of operation, Chef Philippe Orrico will be around to ensure that everything is on the right track. Then he will start splitting time between here and Upper Modern Bistro.



It didn't take us long to go through the food menu and while we waited for our food to arrive, time to check out ON29 upstairs. 

The place is very atmospheric and elegant.



The bar is championed by head barman Giancarlo Mancino, an award-winning bartender who used to work at 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo and Il Milione in a similar capacity.



They even have a cozy terrace extending deep into the shadows of Lan Kwai Fong.



An awesome view of the new California Tower which will be opening shortly.



Back down the stairs we go, our starters were already sitting there waiting to be served.

I haven't had Chef Orrico's signature mini veal burgers for a while now. Perhaps this version with Iberico pork ($128) could help me forget about those juicy veal burgers?

Evidently not. The Iberico pork was surprisingly not as flavorful as we once thought (6/10).


 
We had a similar dish at ON28's next-door neighbour, Arcane about 2-3 weeks ago. It was the very same concept of an open ravioli which they called it
lasagna here ($328).



Underneath the open ravioli were some sautéed langoustine, veal, mushroom and zucchini served in an Asian inspired lime and coconut soup (5.5/10).



The quails and lobster pie serving with a lukewarm bisque sauce and piquillos was next ($428) . This tasted very much like a homemade quiche but with lobster meat, quail, mushroom and spinach as fillings (6.5/10).



 

I strongly recommend sharing half of it with someone because this is really heavy.



If the pie's getting a little too oily, there's a small lobster salad that goes with the dish to freshen things up.



Following three slightly above-average dishes, we finally got something exciting to cheer about - roasted pigeon with artichokes, baby spinach and lemon chutney ($398).

This is a perfectly executed dish with the pigeon roasted to perfection and the sprinkling of mustard seeds provided that extra bite. But I thought they tried to do a little too much with the seasoning instead of letting the natural flavors of the pigeon do all the talking.

Still undisputedly the best dish of the night (7.5/10). 



Dessert was a simple yet unconventional lemon panna cotta ($128) served with a spicy citrus sorbet, marshmallow-shaped frozen lemon ice cream, crispy biscuit and orange zest. Refreshing indeed (6.5/10).



All of our dishes were well prepared but comparing to what we've experienced from Chef Orrico at Pierre, St George and Upper Modern Bistro, I don't think we have seen the best of him tonight.

But this is opening day so I will give him the benefit of the doubt.

Food Rating: 6.5/10
Price: $$$$
Address: 28-29/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Central
Tel: +852 2174-8100
Website: www.ontop.hk


Post a Comment

Please tell us what you think