Qui va la 퀴바라 (Seoul, SOUTH KOREA) ★★★★☆

Seoul’s dining culture has long been built around communal eating, which means solo travelers often hit a wall — especially at traditional BBQ spots, hot pot places, and stew houses where dishes are strictly portioned for two or more. This became a recurring headache while I was planning this trip, and it felt even more pronounced on Saturday in Seongsu-dong, where I was spending a good chunk of the day.

To make things more interesting, I also made a small mistake with the location of my lunch spot. I originally thought it was situated right in the heart of Seongsu-dong, but a closer look on Naver revealed it actually sits along the western border of the broader area. On a hot autumn afternoon, the walk over wasn’t exactly pleasant.

My lunch venue was Qui va la (퀴바라), a casual restaurant and wine bar run by a female owner-chef who single-handedly manages both the kitchen and the front-of-house. A few websites label it a Spanish restaurant, but I would classify it more as modern European with a Korean twist.

I arrived a little late at the quiet, cozy eight-seater and found the dining room completely empty. 

Before I could pause and size up the situation, the owner-chef suddenly came out of the kitchen to greet me and courteously showed me to a corner table.

Poached octopus salad (₩16,000) — I had my eye on this the moment I made the online booking a couple of weeks earlier. 

And it arrived looking exactly like the photos: slices of tender octopus layered between sheets of Parmesan, with potato cubes, olives, and barley, all finished with a generous pool of olive oil. A really pleasing starter that was as appetizing to the eyes as it was to the palate.

Pan-seared red snapper, beurre blanc sauce (₩28,000) — The fish came with beautifully crispy scales and was served alongside cabbage and, once again, barley. The creamy beurre blanc, made with fish stock and butter, carried a subtle zesty lift from lemon zest. Pretty nicely done.

The portions were so generous that I couldn’t manage another bite, not even dessert, so I ended up settling the bill.

Qui va la sits a little out of the way for anyone who wants to stay firmly in the heart of Seongsu-dong, but the hearty European fare and cozy atmosphere make it a worthwhile option for a quiet meal. That said, it might not be the best dining destination for tourists.

Food Rating: 6.6/10

Price: ₩₩₩

Address: 656-1214 Seongsu-dong 1(il)-ga, Seongdong-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Closest Metro Station: Seongsu / Seoul Forest

Tel: +82 02-6953-0804

Website: https://instagram.com/quivala_seoul

Opening Hours: 11:30am - 3:00pm (Thu - Sat), 5:00pm - 11:00pm (Mon - Sat)