Bangkok's vibrant dining scene has just gone a little more exciting since last winter with the arrival of culinary heavyweights Joël Robuchon, Jean-Michel Lorain and Henk Savelberg. But while L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Joël Robuchon), J'aime (Jean-Michel Lorain) and Savelberg (Henk Savelberg) are grabbing all the headlines in the city, another new kid on the block, Vogue Lounge, manages to fly under everybody's radar screen.
Vogue Lounge is an upscale restaurant and bar housed in the top floor of the MahaNakhon CUBE. As we all knew, MahaNakhon CUBE is part of the luxurious skyscraping MahaNakhon, which will soon become the tallest building in Bangkok. Slated to open in 2015, the new 77-storey architecture will be home to The Edition Hotel, Ritz-Carlton Residences and more.
Based on its exterior design, I am guessing that they are drawing inspiration from the famous "jenga!" game.
Part of the reasons we were picking Vogue Lounge over L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon this afternoon was because of a familiar face - Vogue Lounge's executive chef Vincent Thierry, who has been a huge part of Caprice's success in Hong Kong over the years.
Of course another attraction is the impeccable setting from London-based David Collins Studio who has also championed the re-design of Hong Kong's The Continental at the Pacific Place in 2014.
Vogue Lounge is not billed as a glamorous fine-dining restaurant which Chef Thierry is often accustomed to. Instead it's more of a bar serving classic cocktails and bite-sized delicacies (think tapas).
The first dish to make its way to our table was the duck foie gras terrine (฿350) coated with
red berry juice alongside a pool of hazelnut crumble. That was a clever dish - the red berry sauce provided the perfect acidity to balance out the richness of the foie gras terrine (6.5/10).
One of my favorite crab dish over the years was Chef Thierry's Tourteau crab tiramisu with fruity marinade and tandoori spices and he almost did it again with a similar creation here at Vogue.
Meet my bite-sized Alaskan king crab meat with mascarpone mousse and Tandoori spiced fruits (฿350). Underneath the piece of king crab meat were layers of mascarpone mousse, fresh crab meat (lots of them!) and diced fruits with a hint of Tandoori. This was not bad but of coz not nearly as magnificent as the famous Tourteau crab tiramisu itself (7/10).
Now this was a dish we agreed that we could all do without - Razor clam XXL with Japanese cucumber jelly and caviar "Imperial de Sologne" (฿350). Somebody put some seasoning on those razor clams please (3/10)!
Diver scallop "a la Plancha" (฿350) was next. Anyone who knows me well, knew I love seared scallops and this marriage between scallop and Iberico Paleta was a good one although I wasn't sure if the same could be said with the marinated clams and the scallop/Iberico (6.5/10).
I was down to my last bite when I took on the bite-sized Brittany lobster with tortellini and orange-fennel salsa (฿350). I liked the nice buttery taste from the lobster but this portion was beyond tapa size! Just compare the size of the lobster with the tiny tortellini. Almost identical (6/10).
After lunch, we went downstairs to check out L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon on the fifth floor of the same building.
Food Rating: 6.7/10
Price: ฿฿฿
Address: 6/F, MahaNakhon CUBE, Bangkok, Thailand
Closest BTS Station: Chong Nonsi
Tel: +66 (0) 2001-0697
Website: www.voguelounge.com
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