Path (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

My buddy V has been away for much of September and October, so we didn’t get the chance to celebrate his birthday properly. Fast forward to November — schedules aligned, and this time, we decided to go Chinese for a change.

Nestled on the first floor of Shun Fai Building on Kimberley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, Path is a charming eight-seater restaurant serving elevated Chinese cuisine with a modern flair.

Behind the counter table, Chef Tony Mok (formerly of Amber and Mono) brings his own modern interpretation of Chinese cuisine to the table (one tasting menu only).

Dinner began with a trio of small bites, each one thoughtfully crafted and with its own story behind.

Croustade, tea smoked pineapple, ginger – Chef Mok kicked things off with his version of a Malaysian pie tee (小金杯), inspired by his childhood growing up in Yuen Long’s walled village, where pineapple and ginger were commonly served as a snack to begin a meal. This was a beer-battered pie tee, filled with tea-smoked pineapple and ginger mayo — bright, fruity, and gently acidic. A lovely opener to whet our appetite.

Razor clams, douchi, red chili – Next, a razor clam tartlet with a hit of fermented black bean (douchi) and red chili. A perfect little bite with texture, heat, and umami, all wrapped up in one.

Meringue, foie gras, Sichuan peppercorn – A citrusy meringue shell, crowned with foie gras mousse, Sichuan pepper tuile, lychee rum gel, and a dusting of spice powder. An elegant little mouthful — zesty, rich, and with a whisper of numbing heat.

Ika, black fungus, uni – Our first starter was a refreshing salad dish of squid noodles, black fungus, and what I thought were yam slices, all topped with a generous dollop of uni. Finished with nori oil and soy citrus dressing, the flavors felt well-intentioned, but something about the composition didn’t quite come together. A dish that looked better than it tasted.

Chawanmushi, XO, caviar – Next up, Chef Mok's version of chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し). Floating on top of the steamed egg custard was a layer of snow crab meat, truffle, tomato, galangal (南薑) and caviar from Zhejiang province (浙江).

There was a nice balance of umami-rich flavors (crab, truffle and caviar), coupled with acidity (galangal and tomato). My only complaint was the egg custard being a little too custardy almost like a panna cotta. 

Red perch, fermented cabbage, eggplant – Chef Mok's modern take on Chongqing’s comforting dish of fish with pickled mustard greens (酸菜魚).

Beautifully cooked red perch with stir-fried cabbage and pickled eggplant, was finished off with a light white fish broth, accented with pickled cabbage, Greek yogurt and spring onion oil. A nicely executed dish with a mix of vibrant and exciting flavors.

Soy sauce chicken, sticky rice – The meat dish was the chef's own version of soy sauce chicken (豉油雞) with the chicken charcoal grilled and paired with homemade sticky rice (糯米飯) made with conpoy, dried shrimps and mushrooms. 

After the meal, I overheard my neighboring diner offering his two cents to the chef, suggesting that the texture of the sticky rice could have been a little more moist. I have to agree with him and in fact, I felt the chicken could have carried more smoky flavors after spending time on the charcoal grill.

Flower crab, chili oil, dandan noodles – Our final savory dish was a creative take on dandan noodles, served chilled, with flower crab meat, cashew-based dandan sauce, and typhoon shelter-inspired aromatics like fried garlic and chili. 

 

While the composition of the dish was technically clever, the cold temperature left the dish a little flat. A warm or even lukewarm twist might’ve brought out the sauce’s richness (and noodles) a little better and thus made this a much better experience.

Taro, pear, black truffle – Dessert was a taro terrine with a soy sauce glaze, served with black truffle, slices of pear, and an egg yolk foam.

To cap off the evening, a playful madeleine-shaped eggette with a gooey mochi (麻糬) centre.

A lovely little nod to local street snacks with a refined twist.

It was a dinner filled with curiosity, creativity, and conversation — not to mention plenty of laughter and silly jokes, the kind that haven’t changed in the three decades V and I have known each other.

Path isn’t about traditional Chinese cuisine. It’s more of a personal journey, told through the lens of a chef who respects his roots while forging ahead with something unconventional. While not every dish sang in perfect harmony, the narrative was clear, and the intent genuine.

This wasn't just a normal birthday celebration. It was a heartfelt meal, shared with a dear friend, and yes, I finally got the chance to welcome V into the exclusive club.

Food Rating: 6.8/10

Price: $$$$

Address: Shop A, 1/F, 68 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Closest Metro Station: Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel: +852 5275-8881

Website: https://www.instagram.com/path.hkg/?hl=en

Opening Hours: 7:00pm - 11:00pm (Tue - Thu), 6:00pm - 11:45pm (Fri - Sat)