Opus 388 (Shenzhen, CHINA) ★★★☆☆

For months, I’ve been eyeing Shenzhen’s rising fine-dining scene, and Opus 388 helmed by Chef Alessio Durante has been on my radar ever since I stumbled upon the restaurant's glowing reviews on Dianping (大众点评). Some even went as far as to crown it the city’s first fine-dining temple. Conveniently nestled within the Mandarin Oriental Shenzhen, where we were spending the weekend, it felt like the stars had aligned.

Chef Durante is no newcomer to haute cuisine — an Alain Ducasse alumnus, he previously held fort at Morpheus Macau before bringing his culinary vision to Shenzhen. With that pedigree, my expectations were understandably set high.

The restaurant is supposed to boost a nice city view from the window but unfortunately, we were seated a little distance away at the counter table.

A two- and three-course set menu is available, along with a tasting menu (now Chapter 3) showcasing some of the seasonal offerings prepared by the chef and his team.

A parade of small nibbles began with a small dish of cuttlefish, celery, and yoghurt. There was a strong burst of acidity that was quite appetizing, but overall, the dish was rather underwhelming in terms of flavor and balance. As I was once again reminded by the photo, there was plenty of celery, but not nearly enough cuttlefish.

The second nibble was a Japanese chawanmushi (茶碗蒸) with shitake mushrooms.

Lastly, Yunnan matsutake and chicken consommé. This was not intense as first expected and surprisingly, it was the ravioli with ricotta cheese that stole the show.

King crab, summer vegetables, mille-feuille – Our first starter was mille-feuille with king crab meat and summer vegetables.

When I read mille-feuille (千層酥), I pictured delicate pastry layers cradling sweet king crab in between. But what arrived was more of a savory tart — a dense, chewy pastry housing a modest mix of crab meat and summer vegetables. The green bean sauce and vegetable purée dried out far too quickly, leaving the dish texturally flat.

At this point, house-baked sourdough, subtly infused with what I thought was tomato, was served up.

Our bread was accompanied by a foamy butter with chunks of olive in the middle. A nice combination that worked well together. A sign of the kitchen’s potential when it plays to its strengths

Foie gras, morel, peach – They did a nice job with the pan-seared foie gras, which was topped with diced apple and dragon fruit. The fruity topping was refreshing but it did very little to cut through the richness of the foie gras.

The morel mushroom stuffed with peach and the peach sauce, however, was a clever and well-executed pairing that deserved more of the spotlight.

Yellowtail, mushroom, Perseus Caviar, Hennessy XO – Another dish that had us all scratching our head.

The yellowtail matched with a Yunnan mushroom emulsion, was crowned with Perseus Caviar No.1 from France. It was certainly umami-rich, but we could hardly taste the yellowtail, as it was almost dissolved — or perhaps minced — into the sauce.

Dalian abalone, tiger-hands mushroom – Dalian abalone topped with black garlic and yellow mustard, was finished off with an intense sauce made from the abalone jus and kombu. Not bad.

Shandong sole, almond veloute, cherry marmalade – This one also puzzled me. The sole fish, molded into the size and shape of a macaron, was perched over a rich velouté made with milk, garlic and almond. The presentation felt gimmicky, and the bed of braised shallots hidden underneath was more memorable than the fish itself. A missed opportunity for something more elegant.

Pitvhier, black pork, truffle, potato – The main dish for me (while Jelloman enjoyed the lamb).

Chef Durante suddenly appeared tableside to carve the Pithivier for me. A golden, crisp pastry filled with Iberico pork, foie gras and black truffle.

It was finished with a potato foam and his secret beef jus. Finally, a dish that delivered on both technique and flavor. Succulent, aromatic, and deeply satisfying.

Our palate cleanser was a Buddha’s hand lemon blossom sorbet packed with zesty flavors. 

Hainan avocado, 72% Valrhona, shiso, caviar – Dessert was, without question, the best dish of the night—a refined plate of Hainan avocado purée, 72% Valrhona chocolate mousse, brown sugar tuile, shiso ice cream, and a generous portion of caviar, finished with a crispy shiso leaf on top. A bold, savory-sweet dessert with a mix of flavors that were complex yet balanced. It reminded me of Cultivate’s famed banana bread, served with five-spice powder, homemade banana miso, and caviar — an innovative creation that pushes the boundaries of dessert, but with a more understated elegance.

Finally, the sweet trolley with some chocolate, candy and cookies.

Officially, I was thoroughly stuffed, but couldn’t resist a chocolate-coated strawberry and a chocolate almond from the sweet trolley.

I came in full of expectation after seeing the stunning photos from Opus 388’s six-hands dinner with Chef Marcon from Restaurant Marcon and Chef Tian from Avant. Tonight, however, told a different story.

The meal oscillated between creative ambition and subpar execution. The mille-feuille that wasn’t, the macaron-shaped sole, and the "disappeared" yellowtail all left me scratching my head. There were some bright spots, yes — the Pithivier and dessert being clear highlights — but they weren’t enough to elevate the overall experience into something memorable. And with that heavy price tag, I could easily find something unforgettable back in Hong Kong.

Even Jelloman leaned over midway through the meal and whispered, "Let’s not throw money away on Western food north of the border again." Message received — loud and clear.

Food Rating: 6.2/10

Price: ¥¥¥¥

Address: 77/F Mandarin Oriental Shenzhen, 5001 Huanggang Road, Futian, Guangzhou, China

深圳市福田区华富街道莲花一村社区皇岗路5001号深业上城A栋文华东方酒店77楼

Closest Metro Station: Donggualing (冬瓜岭)

Opening Hours: 5:00am - 10:00pm daily

Map: https://j.map.baidu.com/62/THGk