The test of Kaoshiung as a culinary destination officially at noon today with my highly anticipated lunch at Michelin starred Haili. Chef William Kang who spent 16 years refining his craft in some of Taipei’s most acclaimed kitchens including now-defunct Stay by Yannick Alléno and RAW as well as Logy, has recently brought his talent to southern Taiwan.
His first solo venture, Haili, offers a single tasting menu served throughout the day, a testament to the chef’s deep respect for both local and Japanese ingredients.
Grape shrimps, caviar, gooseberry – My meal started off brilliantly with lightly cooked grape shrimp (葡萄蝦), elegantly crowned by Kaluga queen caviar from Taiwan’s Thousand-Island Lake (千島湖). A vibrant sauce made with gooseberry and bell pepper lent a touch of acidity to the shrimp, enhancing its natural sweetness beautifully. Wonderful start!
Red Sea bream, tamarind, hazelnut – Charcoal-grilled red sea bream (真鯛) was layered with slices of yam (山药), and topped with roasted hazelnuts. The dish was finished with a heartwarming broth made with tamarind (羅望子) and brown sugar, delivering a sweet and tangy finish.
While I waited for my "pasta" dish to arrive, a slice of homemade bread was served up with French butter covered with kombu ashes.
Nabeyaki egg noodles, Hollandaise, chawanmushi – A dish inspired by nabeyaki egg noodles (鍋燒意麵), a nostalgic breakfast dish in southern Taiwan.
A silky layer of steamed eggs was topped with two types of dumplings. The first was an Italian ravioli filled with Kaohsiung swordfish and fresh clams, while the second featured a Southern Taiwanese-style wonton made with shrimp. Instead of egg noodles, fried rice noodles were served with a Hollandaise sauce made with black vinegar and sha cha sauce, the heart and soul of a nabeyaki egg noodles dish hidden at the bottom of the bowl.
I thought the texture of the fried rice noodles felt a little funny after absorbing the broth but all in all, not bad.
Cod milt, squid ink, fermented chilies – Shirako was deep-fried tempura-style and paired with sautéed cabbage, fermented chilies, and croutons, all drizzled with a creamy cabbage sauce (奶油醬汁) and dabs of squid ink.
The dish was presented (and tasting) almost like a soup, highlighted by a slightly peppery sauce that was at times a little overpowering for the delicate flavor of the custardy shirako.
Grouper, Noilly Prat, onion – Perfectly cooked grouper fillet was matched with a tower of mushroom tartare and onion, nicely complemented by a flavorful sauce made with Noilly Prat (苦艾酒) which I thought came with some earthy and grassy notes.
Canard, smokey mulberry, 18-year whisky angelica – Some nice smokiness presumably coming from the hay.
The crispy skin was absolutely perfect, while the smoked mulberry purée and the sauce made with 18-year whiskey angelica (威士忌當歸醬) offered two distinctly different condiments to enhance the indulgence of the duck.
Strawberry, lavender, wax apple – Local apple sorbet with Japanese strawberries was served alongside a sauce made from the same strawberries and lavender, with small dice of root vegetables (celery 芹菜?) adding a savory-sweet twist to the dessert.
Kumquat, vanilla, kaffir lime – The chef’s take on lemon pie with lime curd made with kaffir lime, kumquat compote and a scoop of vanilla ice-cream all atop of a crispy yet slightly chewy crust.
There was a real nice balance of sweetness and acidity here with a gorgeous presentation.
Herb tea with some minty notes.
The mignardises included a small piece of cake with fig and a black sesame candy coated with oolong tea powder. The amazing culinary journey finally came to an end.
While last night's meal was anything but impressive, today's lunch experience more than made up for that disappointment and my doubts about Kaohsiung as a new culinary destination. I was fortunate to witness a few amazing dishes with fascinating results. I thought the Service team was well trained and displayed great attention to detail throughout the meal. For me, a well-deserved star.
Food Rating: 7.4/10
Price: $$$
Address: 2F, 264-1 Chenggong 1st Road, Qianjin District, Kaohsiung, Taiwan
Closest Metro Station: Central Park / Glory Pier
Tel: +886 7 215-0559
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 10:00pm (Fri - Sat), 5:30pm - 10:00pm (Tue - Thu)