Cochin Delicatessen (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

While it was sad to hear the once-popular Chicha closed a few months ago, I was really happy to find out that Cochin Delicatessen has taken over the space left behind by the only authentic Peruvian restaurant in the city.

Cochin Delicatessen is a restaurant, bar and deli all under one roof in Soho. The kitchen is helmed by Chef Renaud Marin and this is his first solo venture since he left St George and Upper Modern Bistro, two of my favorite restaurants in town when they're still under the direct guidance of Chef Philippe Orrico.



It was right in the middle of lunch hour when I arrived at Cochin and the staff here wasted no time presenting me with their set menu. This looks pretty good. An appetizer, cheese and dessert buffet was only priced at $125 while adding a main course (spring chicken, fish, beef cheek or pasta) costs another $85. This is truly fantastic value but since I had a really big breakfast at Lobster Central already, I thought I should get something light from the a la carte menu rather than an all-you-can-eat buffet.

Not much has changed since Cochin has taken over. At least from the interior design standpoint. Everything seems to remain intact.



I was told the bread here was baked by Gregoire Michaud. No wonder it's so good.



First up for me was prawn carpaccio, beautifully presented with layers of fennel and cress on top ($140). The prawns were fresh and sweet with the yuzu and ginger dressing providing a nice bit of acidity into the mix. For the price they were charging, I thought the portion was very generous too, and that's tough to come by these days.




Believe me or not, I was almost full by now but there's this mushroom consommé ($135) still waiting on deck.

As soon as my server started pouring the warm mushroom consommé into the taiyouran onsen egg, sweet corn, baby spinach and Avruga caviar, I could sense the aromatic broth brimming with rich mushroom flavors.



This was just a very simple yet well executed dish with every ingredient harmonizing each other nicely. Very nicely done.




Service here was impeccable. If my stomach would allow me to, I would love to sample a couple more dishes (or dessert) but I was way over my limit this afternoon. So until next time.....

If you happen to love places like Upper Modern Bistro and Figaro, you will love this place too!

Food Rating: 6/10
Price: $$
Address: G/F, 26 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Central
Tel: +852 2561-3336