Saturday, August 24, 2013

Le Jardin de Joël Robuchon (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★★

It has always been a two-headed race for Hong Kong's best French restaurant between Caprice and Joël Robuchon but that is slated to change with the imminent departure of Chef Vincent Thierry from Caprice to the "Land of Smiles". Are we going to see an one-horse race down the stretch? We are about to find out very soon.

I read an interesting article the other day comparing these two famed restaurants with two of Hollywood's best actresses - Angelina Jolie and Gwyneth Paltrow. The writer describes
L’Atelier as "dark, moody and sexy", something that reminded him of Angelina Jolie. At the same time, Caprice is "bright, elegant and glamorous" like Gwyneth Paltrow. Very interesting comparison.

Today, it was Angelina Jolie getting the call.

The Joël Robuchon flagship restaurant in Hong Kong is split into three sections: L’Atelier, where diners circle around an open kitchen; Le Jardin, a beautiful and elegant dining room; and The Terrace, an outdoor patio connecting to Le Jardin. 

As always, we walked past the L’Atelier, a dark and sexy room decorated with red velvet and dark marble, into a much brighter and formal dining area in Le Jardin.




Joël Robuchon Hong Kong is currently led by executive chef Olivier Elzer who used to work under his mentor, the great Eric Briffard (Executive chef of Le Cinq Paris). After moving to Asia in 2009, he started working for Pierre Gagnaire’s prestigious Pierre. In 2011, he made the move to L'atelier de Joël Robuchon helping the restaurant to its third Michelin star. 



Amuse bouche was short and sharp - a French pea soup with pancetta ham foam (left) and smoked salmon tartare with peppers, avocado cream and wasabi (right).



All four of us ended up having the same appetizer to start the menu - an air dried wagyu beef ham with bruccio goat cheese, peach, bell pepper confit and crispy focaccia (7/10).



Joël Robuchon's restaurants often have some of the best fricassee recipes in the business and this one with Maine lobster, spelt risotto and lobster coral emulsion ranked right on top among the best of them (8.5/10).



Less successful was the roasted Iberico pork loin glazed with "teriyaki" sauce, mixed herbs
mushroom condiments (5/10).



The rolled saddles of rabbit were the most flavorful dishes of this meal and it was nicely complemented by herbs, cannelloni with button mushrooms and French green beans for a perfect balance (7/10).



Red miso braised veal cheek with summer vegetables and polenta was juicy and had a beautifully tender texture (6.5/10).



The peach jelly and verbena scented peach compote with honey ice-cream was a fairly refreshing choice for dessert (6.5/10).



This one was a little too plain and simple - apricot compote with cinnamon cream and vanilla ice-cream (5/10).



But if I had to pick all over again, I would still pick the dessert trolley. Great value as I got to choose three items out of the trolley. 

I thought the chocolate tart was alright and much better was the mango mille feuille. But the shot with passion fruit mousse, orange liqueur and citrus was simply unreal (9/10).




A nice cup of coffee.....



The usual petite fours and we left with very happy stomachs once again.






Food Rating: 7/10
Price: $$$$
Address: Shop 315 & 401, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong

Closest Metro Station: Central
Tel: +852 2166-9000
Website: http://robuchon.hk/

Asia's 50 Best Restaurants: 23rd (2013)




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