Wednesday, September 21, 2022

Caprice (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

My plan to check out Caprice's surprise menu shattered when mom wasn't a willing participant last time we were here but I promised myself I'd come back for it some other time. Today, I finally kept that promise. 


As a solo diner, I could choose whatever I like to eat this afternoon. Wait, not exactly. I'll let the team here choose for me and hopefully they surprise me with a few dishes I've never tried before.


Land and sea tartare Australian wagyu beef – The kitchen wasted no time trying to blow me away with one of their most instagrammable starters to kick off the meal.



The tower of beef tartare mixed with Gaboriau Oyster was elegantly topped with a layer of Kristal Caviar and then of course, the gold foil. A very nice and complex depth of flavors with the various textures working brilliantly together.


My Hot and Cold Onion Soup – This was a play with the contrasting temperature of the warm onion soup and freezing cold onion-ice-cream.



Apart from the temperature, we also had different textures in there highlighted by the stir-fried onion; and there was the bread in the middle separating the ice-cream and soup. I guess, only one element was missing from a classic onion soup - the melting cheese.


French seabass, shiitake, yellow wine – The poached seabass fillet from France was served with a crispy spring roll stuffed with diced shiitake mushrooms.


I first thought the buttery yellow wine sauce would be too overpowering for the delicate flavors of the seabass but that wasn't the case at all. In fact, it added another dimension to the fish, giving it a very nice, silky mouthfeel and a rich, sublime finish.


Racan pigeon, foie gras, salsify, coffee – The restaurant's signature meat course comes in different variations. This time, the well-executed pigeon breast was simply cooked with the pigeon jus. No coffee crust.



The lightly torched liver and salsify cooked in pigeon jus and coffee rounded out the amazing dish.


Banana chocolate millefeuille, cocoa sorbet – The dacquoise with slices of banana, hazelnut mousse, and topped with a quenelle of cocoa sorbet and gold foil (again). 



Not what I had in mind for a millefeuille but not bad.



Petite fours were mango religieuse with coconut coulis, hazelnut praline and lychee raspberry tart.



I thought the amount of food from the surprise menu would have me killed but to be honest, not really. I could probably take on another dish, maybe two.



After the meal, I took some time to check out the recently opened Restaurant Noi, just a floor up from Caprice. I could hear guests chatting behind the slightly opened door but for the most part, the dining room seemed to be very quiet.



On my way back to the elevator, look who I saw resting at the sofa next to the elevator? The brilliant Chef Guillaume Galliot, Chef de Cuisine at Caprice...


It was nice to finally get this one out of the way. I was of course disappointed not to have any Britany lobster but the menu had everything from the land and sea. Now that my wallet is a lot lighter, I better get back to work.






Food Rating: 7.9/10
Price: $$$$
Address: 6/F, 8 Finance Street, Four Seasons Hotel, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Hong Kong Station
Tel: +852 3196-8860
Website: www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/caprice
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 2:30pm, 6:30pm - 10:30pm daily
S. Pellegrino Asia's 50 Best Restaurants: 24th (2022)



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