Saturday, December 22, 2018

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★★

2018 has been a very sad year for the gastronomic world as we mourned the loss of a number of iconic chefs who've worked in the industry including Paul Bocuse, Anthony Bourdain and Joël Robuchon. I was particularly devastated with the passing of Chef Bocuse and Robuchon, both of whom have profound impact on the haute cuisine we all come to enjoy today. They left behind a remarkable legacy as two of the most influential chefs that France and perhaps the rest of the world have ever seen.

I still vaguely recommended one of my first modern French dining experience about a decade ago at Robuchon a Galera in Macau. It's an eye-opening experience that would change me (and my taste buds) forever. With 2019 just around the corner, I thought I should go back to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon as a way to remember the "chef of the century" before the turn of calendar.



It's my little guy's first time visiting this three Michelin starred culinary temple. Thanks to their new children's policy that allows kids over 4 to dine in. I've been waiting for this change on the rule books for years and finally, my prayer was answered!



Our lunch got off to a wonderful start with a nicely designed and executed amuse bouche centered around a sweet corn velouté. The chilled corn soup came with French caviar, beef consommé jelly, olive oil and paprika. It had a really impressive mix of flavors and they made it look good too, with the decoration of stones and popcorn.



Le King Crabe - Jelloman got things rolling with the king crab salad that used to be my favorite. Leek and egg mimosa salad topped with spiced Alaska king crab and wasabi sauce, had all kinds of wonderful texture and flavor from each layer. A perfect dish to get if you're looking for a refreshing start.



Le Chataigne - I didn't want to stuff myself too much today so I've picked fine chestnut velouté as my first course.



The silky smooth and rich flavored chestnut velouté was topped with smoked cream and artichoke chips. There was some diced chestnut at the bottom of the soup to provide a bit of different textures to the mix.



But that wasn't all. The chestnut theme continued with a homemade brioche which had a chestnut buried right in the middle of the dough. Interesting idea but I wasn't sure if I totally agreed with the concept behind it.



La Langoustine - Jelloman's second course was langoustine bouillon with scampi ravioli. I recalled they had a number of different interpretations of this (also called La Langoustine). As a matter of fact, I had a version which was served with a clear broth made with chicken on my last visit. But this was so much better with the richly intense langoustine bouillon leading the charge and the scampi ravioli playing its supporting role brilliantly.



Le Homard - For my second dish, I decided to try a fairly new addition to the "Small Tasting Portion" menu, lobster rouella with civet sauce. There were two parts to this dish. First, a Maine lobster claw roasted with butter and then as the second leg of the dish, they had lobster meat stuffed inside a sphere made with baby spinach. The keys, however, were the strong and seductive flavors from the brown colored sauce prepared with red wine, diced carrot, onion and dill. A subtle and unexpected spicy kick helped to put an exclamation mark to this brilliantly prepared dish.



Le Pigeon - When it came to her main dish, Jelloman went with the safe bet which would be Robuchon's signature slow-cooked French pigeon with foie gras and mashed potato. This was beautifully presented with a roasted pigeon leg sitting between a trio of pigeon breast and foie gras which have been wrapped tightly with young cabbage and bacon. Talked about a dish that never grows old.



Le Boeuf Wagyu - I wanted some beef this afternoon so the pan seared wagyu beef flap with onion and black truffle was really a no-brainer for me. The succulent Australian wagyu was topped with fresh chives and crispy shallots and served with pepper and a dab of black truffle purée.



It was nice to get re-acquainted with Robuchon's buttery mashed potatoes which have always been touted as one of the silkiest, richest, lightest in the world. I didn't realize how much I missed it until I put my lick on it this afternoon.



Le Black Cod - My little guy got something from this talented kitchen as well. I had this black cod dish before and it's a very good one. Always love how the silky cod fillet was soaked in sake and finished with a miso glaze. A lovely coconut emulsion helped to put on the finishing touch.



Le Mont Blanc - We had two really outstanding desserts, first a classic Mont Blanc with chestnut cream, black fruits and crispy meringue. A beautiful synergy of sweet and fruity flavors, with the black fruits balancing the sweetness of the chestnut perfectly.



Le Chocolat - As a milk chocolate lover, of course I went with their chocolate themed dessert with crispy dark chocolate sable base topped by coconut cream, 50% milk chocolate mousse, shredded coconut and gold leaf. A scoop of coconut sorbet gave this a nice refreshing finish.



After a nice set of petite four, it's time for us to settle the bill and head home for the preparation of our winter festival celebration dinner which will be hot pot at our place tonight. 





Food Rating: 8/10
Price: $$$$
Address: Shop 315 & 401, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Central
Tel: +852 2166-9000
Website: www.robuchon.hk


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