Thursday, September 7, 2017

Octavium Italian Restaurant (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

With new restaurants coming in far and few this year, I made the smart move to secure a table at Octavium for Jelloman's birthday dinner nearly 2 months ago. The private kitchen by three Michelin starred chef Umberto Bombana has undisputedly been the hottest opening so far this year and after my first visit back in July, I was curious in how they have improved over the last 2 months.



Again, they have sent someone downstairs to wait at the lobby and bring us up to the eighth floor.



This was taken when we were almost ready to leave so not to be mistaken by all those empty tables. The restaurant was in fact packed throughout the night, which was very different from my last meal here when there was only a handful of customers. I guess the word has really gotten out about this little private kitchen



Some tasty bread in the form of piadina (Italian style flatbread) and grissini to start the meal off for us.



That was immediately followed by today's welcome dish from the chef, crispy mozzarella served on a bed of tomato and bell pepper sauce. The mozzarella had this nice pillowy texture almost like a marshmallow.



Salt crusted scallop with cucumber and almond - Our server brought my Hokkaido scallop over before they peeled off the salt crust. At this point, I started to realize that the lighting in the dining room was different tonight. It's noticeably darker (a little more romantic!) so it posed a bit of a challenge for those of us trying to take the perfect pictures.



Now, this was much better with my iphone providing just enough light for my camera to work with. As soon as I got the lighting problem fixed, my salt crusted scallop arrived without the salt crust. It was served with a pretty amazing sea urchin butter. Very nice start!



Frankly, I didn't know what to do with the cucumber and almond milk, a side dish that came along with the scallop.



King crab - Just when I was feeling real good about myself for picking the perfect appetizer to start the meal, a stunning dish of king crab cooked two ways arrived right in front of the birthday girl.

On the left was king crab meat topped with an orange sabayon. The sweetness of the crab meat was nicely elevated by the light broth (also made with crab) and tomato water underneath, while the orange sabayon did its part with some lovely acidity. And this was just the beginning. The second part of this dish featured a large piece of king crab leg simmered in the same broth and tomato water with savory oscietra caviar on top. I thought both interpretations were superbly delivered with a great balance between pureness and comfort. The best dish of the night without a question.



Fettuccine with Sicilian red prawn and chanterelle mushroom - Both of us went with the fettuccine and it turned out to be a beautiful dish. Very lovely texture from the pasta, perfectly complemented by slices of Sicilian red prawns and chanterelle mushroom. This was very enjoyable.



Mayura beef sirloin with leek and watercress - I had this when I was here last time. While I remembered it being a little rubbery last time around, I was happy that they got it right tonight. Thought tonight's sirloin had pretty nice marbled pattern and the flavorful crust was just perfect.



Roasted "Te Mana" lamb - Slightly less successful was the New Zealand lamb. Three different parts of the lamb were featured in this dish including its loin, belly and leg. It was served with artichoke in three different textures as well (pickled, purée and fried). Not bad but definitely not as mind blowing as most of the other dishes tonight.



Pre-dessert was flat peach sorbet served with different textures of the very same flat peach. Pretty refreshing.



Figs tart with ricotta gelato and traditional balsamic vinegar - I was hoping to get chef Bombana's tiramisu again but unfortunately, that wasn't on the menu tonight. So, instead I had their figs tart with all kinds of ingredients like ricotta cheese gelato, apricot jam, crumbs and balsamic vinegar. If I had a choice, I would probably go for their tiramisu again.



"Grand Cru" chocolate souffle with hazelnut gelato - Jelloman had their souffle. I've never been a big fan of chocolate soufflés so needless to say, it didn't receive rave reviews from me.



Some mignardises before we called it the night. The handmade chocolate was good as always and so were the Brutti Ma Buoni cookies (I didn't know it meant "ugly but tasty" in Italian so thanks to our server who taught us a little something here).



I was real pleased with the way the kitchen has progressed over the last 2 months. The minor adjustments here and there have worked out perfectly and the result was a very enjoyable evening for the birthday girl. Mission accomplished.




Food Rating: 8/10
Price: $$$$
Address: 8/F One Chinachem Central, 22 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Central
Opening Hours: 12:00pm - 2:30pm, 6:30pm - 10:30pm (Mon - Sat)



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