Friday, March 24, 2017

Caprice (Hong Kong, CHINA) ★★★★☆

Lunch at Petrus three days ago made me realize how much I miss French fine-dining. Since I knew I would be in Central this week, I thought I should go and check out Caprice's spring menu before my busy schedule sets to kick off at the beginning of April.

I was pleasantly surprised to get a table despite not having secured one until late last night.

We were offered a small nibble of sweet corn custard to start the meal. This was complemented nicely with two tiny slices of pickled duck breast and some popcorn. Interesting mix.

Lunch finally got underway with the first starter of the afternoon. This sure looked a little familiar as I also happened to kick off my meal at Petrus with foie gras although with a bit of different interpretation.

I thought the chicken and duck foie gras pâté en croute was pretty tasty. A bit of chicken consommé jelly helped to tie everything together nicely and the pickled vegetables on the side did well to offset the richness of the foie gras.

As much as I like our first starter, there was no doubt in my mind which was the more appealing choice for starter. My mouth began to water the moment our server placed my Alaskan king crab in front of me. That was an incredibly big piece of crab leg right there!

I love the fact that they simply served the poached Alaskan king crab with avocado purée, crab salad and citrus fruit chutney so what I had was predominantly the sweetness of the crab meat. That was a beautiful dish.

After the stunning dish of Alaskan king crab, I knew we won't go wrong by sticking with the seafood theme. The Canadian lobster was really meaty and the sauce made with lobster coral was a nice touch.

Slightly less successful was the other main dish, roasted duck with citrus endives and orange emulsion.

Dessert has been the highlight of our meals at Caprice ever since the arrival of pastry chef Nicolas Lambert. We first began our sweet journey with this chocolate panna cotta, served along with chocolate sable, tanariva and Guanaja chantilly.

This was not bad although I personally preferred a little more textures to it.

The tahitian vanilla floating island, on the other hand, was a masterpiece. The ball of egg white with fillings of salted caramel ganache was light and airy. Crushed sea salted caramel popcorn provided lovely texture on the outside while a rich tahitian vanilla sauce put the icing on the cake. A perfect end to this remarkable lunch.

Petite fours were mini pineapple macaron, raspberry chocolate and carrot cake (more like tart).

For the second time this week, I left a restaurant with a big smile on my face and a pretty happy tummy. This would most definitely be my last visit to Caprice before chef Fabrice Vulin ends his tenure here. Let's see how chef Guillaume Galliot will revamp the menu once he gets his feet wet in Caprice in late April.

Food Rating: 7.5/10
Price: $$$$
Address: 6/F, 8 Finance Street, Four Seasons Hotel, Hong Kong
Closest Metro Station: Hong Kong Station
Tel: +852 3196-8860

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